>>8662935>most of them /seem/ to have been made with commercial patternsSome are, some aren't. Some use commercial patterns but alter them. You might combine elements from multiple patterns, or buy a pattern as a base but make alterations on things like the corset back lacing, amount of material necessary for accurate panniers, etc. There are actually a number of history-friendly patterns available from historical costumers, free and otherwise...
In any case, just because someone's using a pattern doesn't mean the process of making the garment won't be labor intensive and time consuming. It just means that they didn't have to spend time drafting a custom pattern. Nor are all pattern-made gowns alike. The same pattern used by different people can result in dresses of vastly different styles and qualities.
But, anyway. For an example let's assume you're making a relatively basic robe francaise (for the sake of consistency let's go with one made with that popular Simplicity pattern, without any added flourishes or alterations like a stomacher) you'll need about:
-20 yards of fabric for the dress itself
-About the same amount but in liner fabric
-Misc elements (grommets, hook/eye closures, etc)
-Other fabric material for trimmings (lace, etc)
Let's say you decide to use a basic but nice brocade for the dress ($10/yard) and cheap linen for the lining ($4/yard). That's $280 for the base fabric.. plus let's say $40 or so for the other elements + simple trimmings. So $320 for materials alone.
And making a dress from that particular pattern can take anywhere from 30-60+ hours depending on your skill level, equipment, alterations, etc.