/diy/ - Do It Yourself » Thread #889644

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Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 18:54:12 No.889644 View Reply Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890374

So I got this old rifle that I want to refurbish as a home project. What are some pointers when sanding and staining the wood that I need to know and how do you refinish metal? Brasso? What about to keep it from rusting or a protective clear coat (I think that's the word) for the wood? Advice would be appreciated. About to head to Menards to get some stuff for it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:00:03 No.889645 Report Delete

Quoted By:

I would try /k/

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:01:15 No.889646 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889648 >>889652

Leave the metal alone.

Sand down the wood, then apply a pre-stain conditioner, then the stain of your choice, then multiple thin coats of Minwax fast drying poly, allowing for drying and buffing with steel wool in between.

That's what I did anyways.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:05:42 No.889648 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889650

>>889646
>allowing for drying and buffing with steel wool in between.
How would I do that? Steel wool in general or something specific? Why steel wool and not superfine sandpaper? Wouldn't steel wool just remove what I just applied? And why leave the metal alone?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:09:43 No.889650 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889651

>>889648
Because that's what the instructions called for iirc.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:12:59 No.889651 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889655

>>889650
Where did you find said instructions?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:16:54 No.889652 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889653

>>889646
This, for the metal.

For the wood I'd figure out what it has for a finish presently, then either strip or repair it (If it's oil based).

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:21:35 No.889653 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889657 >>889658 >>889688

>>889652
Why not touch the metal? It's worn and completely bare and a what appears to be rust or minor pitting in the receiver.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:23:14 No.889655 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>889651
on the side of the can of finish.

You sand because the initial coat of varnish will 'lift' the ragged ends of raw wood as the penetrating solvents migrate the poly into the wood as it dries. Sanding knocks this down. Subsequent coats will have less of this, and each application of varnish will leave the wood smoother and the grain will pop better.

Sandpaper and steel wool does the same thing. Steel wool is more comfortable to use on curvy, irregular surfaces.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:26:02 No.889657 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889662

>>889653
I see bluing on the barrel and you won't do the receiver any favors by sanding it.

Just degrease the metal parts thoroughly and wipe everything down with a good lube. I like Breakfree CLP.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:27:10 No.889658 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889662

>>889653
You don't touch the metal because its fine, and if you clean off the patina then it loses a lot of its value because no one can verify how old it is

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:31:58 No.889662 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889694

>>889657
I wasn't planning on sanding it. Just trying to touch it up a bit. Unless that's necessary to the process but I was under the impression that you just rub it down with something and then coat it.
>>889658
I don't particularly care about value. It's already mine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 21:13:05 No.889688 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889691

>>889653
Because compared to refinishing the wood, proper bluing takes materials and processes that are mostly beyond the average hobbyist.

Even most of the commerically available cold blues are usually fantastically toxic.

The steel on a gun, unless it's really bad is best left alone.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 21:20:00 No.889691 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>889688
Fair enough.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 21:24:13 No.889694 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889699 >>889705 >>889709

>>889662
You have bad taste then. The patina is not ugly. It is character. You strip it and you remove all the story history and character from it. Its story starts over again with 'uncle anon liked shiny objects more than provenance and the story behind something'

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 21:29:49 No.889699 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889709

>>889694
So?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 21:50:58 No.889705 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>889694
No it doesn't.

It's not magically reborn anew just because someone polished it. It has the exact same history it always had, because it's brasso, and not a fucking flux capacitor.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 21:58:08 No.889709 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>889730

>>889694
In addition to >>889699, the "story" behind it is shit.
>Yo, check out this rifle I got ass cheap from the gun store. It's beat to shit, but man it has character! You see that missing screw? Well that holds the bolt carrier group together and when the pin inside falls out, the bolt rapes itself. And you see that scar in the metal where it looks like dude tried to mount a scope onto it? Eeyup. That thar rahfle musta took down a big ol' durr or tuh.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 23:01:07 No.889730 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>889709
>Being this disrespectful of the machine spirit
>Not remembering the time brother Johan requisitioned a prey-sense sight, and the armorer attempted to attach one from a broken weapon.
>Not remembering when the surface was scratched by the genestealer just before the round pierced his thorax
>not remembering when it was reassembled incorrectly.
Your machine spirit will hate you and cease to function.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 13:05:04 No.890374 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890376

>>889644
If you are concerned about the value of the rifle then don't touch it.

If you aren't worried about the value dropping, you could duracote or seracote the metal parts. It's super tough stuff and has almost know thickness to it, and it comes in a number of colors including factory bluing. There are plenty of places online that sell the stuff. You can usually find workshops and the like that will teach you the process, although these are usually only available in metropolitan areas.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 13:06:05 No.890376 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>890374
no*, not know. derp.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 18:43:59 No.890581 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890601 >>890614

My kommando sense was tingling.

Don't you fucking sand that stock you bubba ass cock sucker.

Start here http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=83&t=136048

Strip that bullshit off the wood, dry dry dry, and strip again. Apply boiled linseed oil, or tung oil if it's not firewood dry by now.

Metal is fine, its probably brass, otherwise get some oil and 0000 steel wool. That's four aught steel wool, anything below that will cut and damage bluing and metal, this will be so fine the rust gets lifted off with no damage to the finish.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 19:32:51 No.890601 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890631

>>890581
Too late.

Will Brasso clean the metal well enough?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 20:18:17 No.890614 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890626

>>890581
Dammit I just came in to post this. Too late...

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 20:44:19 No.890626 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891058

>>890614
/k, you guys should just stay away from /diy, it is a place of sadness for you..

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 20:46:03 No.890631 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890638

>>890601

Brasso would work fine yes, but it has ammonia in it, so if its a nickel finish you would ruin it completely.

Most antique lever actions are made out of brass though and braso won't do shit for the tarnish, it would just polish it, completely unnecessary. Brasso is also far too rough and takes more material off than is tasteful.

If it is indeed brass as i suspect just disassemble completely and dunk it in some ketchup. The vinegar in it will work wonders and eat the tarnish and not touch the good metal, some mother's mag and a soft cloth is all you need for a mirror shine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 20:53:46 No.890638 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890648 >>890651

>>890631
What would help pull up some of that rust them? Instead of ketchup, why not just dilluted vinegar?
And I don't believe it's a nickel finish unless it's far beyond recognizable. It looks like it's just steel and faded bluing. There's missing spots on the barrel and more black on the less-touched parts of the receiver to encourage that theory.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 21:15:34 No.890648 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890661

>>890638
dilluted vinegar is very water like so you would have to keep the part submerged. Where as ketchup is a paste and you just wipe it on then wipe off the tarnished layer underneath.

Get a magnet right now and tell me if it sticks to the receiver. I really don't think its steel it looks off.

Frankly it doesn't look like it was ever blued at all. Thats either tarnish, paint, or possibly stoving. I'm leaning toward paint judging by the tang in your second picture.

Whats the model of the gun? It looks like a marlin or winchester 94.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 21:25:37 No.890651 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Should I even worry about the shit on the inside? I scrub it but I think that's just what the wood looks like. I know it'll fuck up the color, but it shouldn't matter since it's covered and on the inside, right?

>>890638
Makes sense.

No magnet. Sorry.

And shit, now that I look closely at it I do believe it may be nickel. There's the unmistakable shiny reflective surface like on several of my other ones.

Winchester 94.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 21:28:38 No.890655 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Misquoted that last post.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 21:39:53 No.890661 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890663

>>890648
This is the other side. It's all shiny and reflective so I believe it's nickel. You say Brasso will ruin it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 21:48:31 No.890663 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890664

>>890661
Brasso in general is too harsh for guns. but it will eat the nickel.

Heres how Winchesters work, the receiver is an alloy of steel and nickel (crude stainless), they essentially electroplated iron on top of this so they could blue it, the black in your picture is essentially blueing that has worn off over the years since it was only a few microns thick. It is not rust, it cannot rust unless it was dunked in salt water.

Brasso will dissolve the gun itself since it has ammonia in it.

If you just want it shiny get some Mothers Mag polish, or flitz. If you're just trying to make it more presentable, put some oil on it and get to scrubbing with some 0000 steel wool.

I repeat, do not use brasso or anything that contains ammonia.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 21:52:40 No.890664 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890670

>>890663
>If you're just trying to make it more presentable, put some oil on it and get to scrubbing with some 0000 steel wool.
That's really all I want. Dude earlier pointed out how hard bluing is and the chemicals it needs. I'm sanding, filling, and re-staining the stock a similar color.

So by oil what do you mean exactly? And I assume I can find 0000 steel wool at a hardware store?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 21:58:17 No.890670 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890674

>>890664
>So by oil what do you mean exactly? And I assume I can find 0000 steel wool at a hardware store?
Any gun oil. Hoppes #9 is one you will find nearly everywhere, you could possibly just use motor oil if you wanted, its just to protect the metal from corrosion and as a lubricant when scrubbing with the steel wool. 0000 steel wool can be found all over the place, hardware stores, ranch supply, maybe wallyworld. Just make sure it says 0000 steel wool (or bronze/brass), anything less than that will just mar the surface as if you were using 60grit sandpaper on wood.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 22:02:41 No.890674 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>890670
Cool shit. I got a bottle of Hoppes handy.
And I'll have to check out Menards this weekend when I get the chance.
Thanks for all the advice, brosef.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 15:26:41 No.890959 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890994

On a similar note, I've been meaning to ask for sometime about general rifle care. My grandfather brought me out a really nice scoped 30/06 the last time he came, and I want to give it the care it truly deserves. I'd actually like to hand this gun down to my descendants, if at all feasible. Any recommended cleaning kits, or reagents? I've done enough industrial cleaning that I respect the ingredients if it comes to the commercial solution.

The stock seems pretty well maintained, but if it needs refurbishment I'd appreciate any suggestions to what to refinish it with.

I know /k/ would be the place to ask, but imo that's only if you actually trust those knife-fucking faggots with info to clean a self-exploding device. I trust /diy/ much more than I trust anyone irl, sadly.

Any tips/tricks for keeping a decently maintained rifle/scope so? Basically, I want anything in front of it to die, and I sorta don't wanna lose body parts shooting it.... but particularly I want to keep good care of it at all times, in case I ever really need it.

Also any other suggestions (bullet grain etc)?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 17:10:31 No.890994 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891030 >>891058

>>890959
Yes but I'm from k and just browse diy answering gun question so your dick might fall off if I answer. :^)

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 18:20:00 No.891030 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891058 >>891077

>>890994
hey bro, I noticed this thread and would like to ask for your advice on cleaning an old gun I got from my gramps, if you have time.

Now, I don't know shit about guns, all I know is that it used to be in mint conditions until we forgot it somewhere where water reached it and the metal parts got rusty

I tried to clean it with what google translate says is abrasive paper for car body, which I'm not sure is the correct trasnlation. Anyway, most of the rust went away but it was im It worked somehow, as in, it removed most of the rust but it is impossible to remove it all due to the size of the paper and some small niches on the rifle. Would you say that I could get the job done with some very fine steel wool?

The wood and plastic(if even plastic at all) parts seem ok. Sorry for the quality of pics

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 19:23:01 No.891058 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891077

>>890994
>>891030

I told you to stay away, bro.
>>890626

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 20:00:53 No.891077 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891257

>>891030
Emery cloth is what google is referring to. Sanding metal is horrible and you did more harm than good. You should feel ashamed.

The best way to remove 100% of the rust from that would be to electrolysis it all off.

I don't have a clue what language you speak or if you know what that is, so heres a video, i hope you can translate from there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9C8fW2Mz0g

But just in case. Mix washing soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) with water in a 1tablespoon/gallon mixture

Hook up positive (red) lead to a piece of steel you don't care about, or some carbon electrodes

Hook negative (black) to that abused shotgun

And just wait a few hours, the rust will fall off it, take a BRASS wire brush and just gently work the residue off under warm running water.

IMMEDIATELY dry and oil it with anything you have where you live, motor oil if you have to, it doesn't matter, just get the bare metal oiled.

This will not harm any factory bluing till on the gun.

Please disassemble the rifle first, into the smallest possible pieces, and do not put the wood in the tank ffs.

You can strip and re-oil the wood from the link up top
>http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=83&t=136048

If its plastic, theres nothing you can do since its made to be cheap disposable china level trash. But i highly doubt thats plastic.

>>891058
I know but i take pity on the poor relics.

In b4 i was getting trolled

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 08:46:30 No.891257 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891279

>>891077
tbh it wouldn't make me justice to say I used abrasive paper as it wasn't abrasive at all, it was more like a black paper that left black dust coating over the rust while removing the superficial rust.

I'll try electrolysis, will olive oil suffice for moisturizing the gun?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 10:57:22 No.891279 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891257
If you want it to smell like death when it goes rancid.

I'd stick to linseed oil for the stock and any petrol based oil for metal. You could use linseed for the metal also, but it can get gummy, not recommended for moving parts

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