/diy/ - Do It Yourself » Thread #890680

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Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 22:13:36 No.890680 View Reply Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890840

So I've got a couple olivewood kitchen utensils, and I cannot keep a finish on them. I've used coconut oil (kinda dumb, but whatever), mineral oil, and mineral oil with beeswax melted into it. And no matter how heavily I apply it, or how many times, if I use it even once, the finish is completely gone afterward and it looks like the thing has been sitting out in the Sahara for a few months.

Obviously I hand wash, not dishwasher.

Any pro tips?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 22:23:28 No.890684 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890689

beeswax is probably the toughest you got.

you could try setting up an oil bath in a vacuum chamber. might drive some extra oil into it when you release the vacuum.

you might not be able to cook with such a thing, it might be best for serving and tossing salads. the heat of cooking will drive the oil out, and the wax off.

there are food safe finishes but I would assume you're avoiding them?

ask /ck

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 22:31:07 No.890689 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890698

>>890684
I've definitely thought about the vacuum chamber. However, its a fair amount of expensive equipment I don't really need or have room for. On that note, I'm guessing theres at least one food safe stabilizer that would pretty much permanently finish it for me.

Along those lines, with the oil/beeswax mixture, it has to be heated to be not too viscous to apply; so I've tried heating the olivewood, applying the finish and then keeping it around 150F for a couple hours applying more finish as it seems to soak in. Same deal of it just coming right off.

About the heat comment, even just using it to scoop some rice onto my plate and then washing it causes it all to be stripped away. It doesn't seem to be a problem with just cooking Its very frustrating.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 22:55:46 No.890698 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890699

>>890689
It's probably finished as well as it can be. It's normal to need to apply such finishes weekly. You could try getting it wet and knocking all the fibers down with steel wool or the scrubby side of a sponge, but I'm sure different fibers would pop up the next time you got it wet because you don't have anything to permanently seal it with.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 23:00:57 No.890699 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>890698
I get that mineral oil isn't a permanent finish, but I'd like to be able to go a few times of using it before there's literally nothing left.

As far as grain raising goes, I actually don't have a problem with it, seems it was raised and sanded off during manufacturing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 23:31:57 No.890710 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Dish soap is designed to remove grease and oil.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 23:40:35 No.890712 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Have you tried just leaving it in a vat of oil for like a week?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 05:59:15 No.890807 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Oil or wax is not a permanent finish in a cooking environment - if it doesn't come off in the food, it'll come off in the wash.

Either get used to reapplying the finish after use, or maybe find a food-safe finish. You could possibly try Cactus Juice (a heat catalysed resin), but that needs a vacuum chamber to really get it into the wood.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 06:18:32 No.890810 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Find a food safe oil, not olive or vegetable, osmo do a good range, and hear the oil in a double boiler and submerge the spoon for an hour and then leave it for a day or two and that's really the best you're going to get

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 07:05:25 No.890816 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890835

What's the purpose of the finish? All the utensils I own are wood and don't have any finish on them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 08:10:57 No.890835 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890839

>>890816
basically, keeps the water mostly out of the wood so it can't start rotting/weathering. Makes things last forever instead of a decade or so.

Have a lantern hear at right angles between two gears on bearings. one gear goes clockwise, turns the lantern gear, turns the other gear counterclockwise at the same time.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 08:22:00 No.890839 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891327

>>890835
whoops posting on wrong board. ignore the lantern gear thing.

Also, the only permanent foodsafe (probably) finish I've heard of is boiled linseed oil. Came across someone fixing their cast iron pans to work like nonstick, sanding them flat and putting on a layer of linseed oil.
Linseed oil is an acceptable cooking oil, but 'boiled' linseed oil is usually polymerized by adding chemical dryers and not just heated. (regular heat treated linseed oil can take weeks to properly dry, which is why this is done, but chemical dryers = toxic). But the key is that heating linseed oil polymerizes it, so it dries to a film of "organic plastic", basically. So it'll be very tough and long lasting in comparison to oil.

The only other suggestion is a layer of food safe shellac. Shellac is not the toughest finish, and doesn't stand up to alcohol (in case you use wine in cooking etc.), and it will probably flake a little bit, but it will work pretty well. About 35% of confectioner's glaze is shellac, think m&m coating.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 08:24:26 No.890840 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890847

>>890680
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil
durable, not toxic, but sure as hell not tasty.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 08:40:48 No.890847 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>890840
well, once dry, should not come off or interact much. heat resistant to well above water boiling temp, if i remember right 400-500F?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 13:45:48 No.891327 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891420

>>890839
Sacrilege and blasphemy and anything else that can be said!!! Sanding down a cast iron pan should be grounds for death. That takes away the entire purpose of a cast iron pan.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 16:16:17 No.891420 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891327
Chill, at some point that cast iron was "raw", if you continue reading his post you'll notice that the pan was thereafter seasoned. If that's done properly I don't see what the problem is.
I'll admit that there are nicer ways to get back to raw iron state but because regrinding is also a lot more work I'll go ahead and guess that there was some chipping to the pan.

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