/diy/ - Do It Yourself » Thread #892673

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2MiB, 2592x1936, image.jpg

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 17:55:24 No.892673 View Reply Report Delete

This is an antique Jersey patter American ax head.
Purchased at a flea market $1.00us.
This ax has hardened steel for the bit and softer and cheaper steel for the cheek and butt.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 2MiB, 2592x1936

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:01:11 No.892674 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>892948

If you want to restore an ax make sure there s sufficient hardened steel at the bit. You can often see a line between the two types of steel. This line is called the hamon line. You can see the hamon in this photo. I also hit the edge with a file to show some small nicks. These are not an issue. But avoid a head with cracks or large chips missing.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:05:59 No.892677 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:09:58 No.892678 Report Delete

Quoted By:

At the same flea market I got this handle for $2.00us.
These come with a coating of lacquer and that shir gets slippery when wet. Sand it off with 80 grit, followed by 220 grit.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:16:54 No.892679 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Start your test fit. The marks left on the wood are the high spots.
You can use sand paper, scrapper or a file to remove the high spots.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:19:56 No.892680 Report Delete

Quoted By:

You want the end proud of the head by about 1/4 - 3/8 inch

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:23:54 No.892682 Report Delete

Quoted By:

You will need a wedge,
You make one if you want, it's not too hard
But I had these left from another job

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 1MiB, 1936x1936

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:26:03 No.892684 Report Delete

Quoted By:

And you will need some of this stuff.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:29:35 No.892686 Report Delete

Quoted By:

The blo does two things
I lubricates the wood and allows the wedge to be driven in further
And as the wood absorbs the oil,the wood swells making a tight fit
Dry brittle wood is no good, so use as much blo as needed.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:32:41 No.892690 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>892698

Don't hit the wedge with a hammer, it will split the wood. Place a block on the wedge and hit the block.
Btw. Is anyone following the thread?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:37:47 No.892692 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Trim off the excess and then I made it flush with a file. Some prefer to leave the wood proud 1/8-1/4 inch. But I like the wood flush.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:45:53 No.892694 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Some people won't add a step wedge, but I like them

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:49:52 No.892695 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>892701

Clean up the edges
Add blo to the cut at the eye
And treat the whole handle with blo
After it dries, but on another coat of blo

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:51:04 No.892696 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:52:13 No.892697 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:52:49 No.892698 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>892713

>>892690

you can screw some rust capable shit into it so the head will not go fly in few weeks after starting use it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 18:57:19 No.892701 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>892673
Good thread, you'd be amazed how few people know how to hang an axe or hammer, let alone know that such things are possible.

>>892695
A trick I've used with linseed oil on gunstocks is gently heating both the wood and oil to facilitate penetration. It's worked well on the handful of hammers I've rehung, so I'm guessing it'd also work on axes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 19:20:30 No.892713 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>892698
>> rust capable shit
Some what?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 20:15:10 No.892735 Report Delete

Quoted By:

thanx for the step by step...
I knew generally how this works but this added a bit more detail. I have a small sledge hammer head that needs a new handle...

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 20:27:20 No.892741 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Followin

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 10:07:03 No.892948 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893213 >>893253

>>892674
>This line is called the hamon line

Actually, its not.

What you have there is the scarf-weld line - the mechanical joint between the high carbon and the lower-carbon/wrought steel body.

Carefully polished, that weld line would be virtually invisible.

a hamon is an artefact formed in a homogeneous steel which has had differential hardening, resulting in formation of a martensite crystalline structure only along the cutting edge, while the back is in a pearlitic steel form. It is usually identified as a smoky, or cloudy line along the blade.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 18:11:42 No.893158 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>892673
Nice

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 20:24:16 No.893213 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>892948
Sounds Fuckin cool either way

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 21:40:05 No.893253 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893257

>>892948
It's a line a demarcation between the two steels
So don't get your panties in a twist.
Nice thread op.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 21:59:56 No.893257 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>893253
it is a line between two steels.

a hamon is a line in one steel, formed by entirely different processes. There is a significant difference.

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