/diy/ - Do It Yourself » Thread #893142

[15 / 4 / ?]

2MiB, 4128x2322, 20151025_163740.jpg

CNC/Milling help

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 17:51:29 No.893142 View Reply Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893145 >>893147 >>893148 >>893180

Hey /diy/

First, thank you for the help to date! Got libreCad up and running, it's awesome.

I've run into a bit of a situation. I'm tying to make a face plate for a cabinet I'm building that will have 4 USB ports.

I got one of those 4 port PCI USB bracket things, because that's exactly what I need but I don't know how to properly recreate that design with the proper spacing and dimensions.

Pic related. I did my best with a ruler and just kinda of eye-balling it, but as you can it's still off.

1) I was wondering if anyone knows a better method than the guess/print/check/retry method.

Or 2) is there a places where I can the exact dimensions of this faceplate? Hole size, slot size spacing etc ...?

Pic related.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20151025_163746.jpg, 2MiB, 4128x2322

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 17:52:21 No.893145 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893147

>>893142
Another pic

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 17:54:21 No.893147 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893170

>>893142
>>893145
Have you calibrated the printer you're using? If not, start with that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 17:56:48 No.893148 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893170

>>893142

Do you not have a set of calipers...?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 18:49:10 No.893170 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893174 >>893181

>>893147
Yes, it's calibrated and it's printing to scale. The dimensions of the entire plate is 5x5 and that's what it measures to once printed.

>>893148
I do not, would this make it easier?

I keep asking why they don't have these specs online, it looks like a common bracket

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 18:56:45 No.893174 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893184

>>893170
It's not a common bracket because it's not a universal/patented design. Every manufacturer can produce something slightly different to match with how their USB ports are arranged.

Your best bet it to get a set of calipers, measure distances between the cutouts, and throw it into CAD.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 19:07:57 No.893180 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>894335

>>893142
How are you doing any machining without proper measuring tools? Buy a caliper and take proper measurements, maybe youtube how to use calipers properly. Avoid cheap digital ones, a good dial caliper will last forever as long as you don't drop it, if you can't afford that then you can get a metal vernier caliper for under 10 dollars.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 19:11:16 No.893181 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893184 >>893194

>>893170
>I do not, would this make it easier?

I don't even understand why you would try and do machine work without the most basic machinist's inspection tool.

Despite the previous anon's recommendation against cheap digital calipers, I've found that they work pretty well, and that seems to be the general consensus among people who have compared them to much nicer sets.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 19:18:45 No.893184 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893194

>>893181
This. Ignore >>893174, you're not building a jet engine and don't need tolerances down to 0.001mm/0.0001" A cheap digital calliper will do you fine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 19:37:14 No.893194 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>893203

>>893181
>>893184
Cheap digital calipers have slow response, repeatability isn't that great and THE FUCKING BATTERIES DRAIN EVERY COUPLE OF MONTHS.

God damn I'm tired of changing batteries on a caliper that I use twice a year.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO sick mods.jpg, 1MiB, 960x2160

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 20:03:53 No.893203 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>894341

>>893194

I find 200ms to refresh more than adequate. Repeatability is within 0.03mm, by my quick-and-dirty testing. I would assume that's more than sufficient for the kind of work someone who doesn't already own calipers would be doing.

Battery life, however, did piss me off enough to do something about it.

No, not the sane thing and buy better calipers, what the fuck. This is /diy/. The OFF/ON button actually only turns on the display. The sensor remains on at all times (which only makes sense, since how else would it know to turn on the screen when it's moved?). If I remember right, the thing draws 21µA when on, and 17µA when "off".

Now it draws 21µA when on, and 0µA when off.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 20:44:14 No.894330 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>894331 >>894335

have any of you fuckers heard of a dial caliper? (pic related) theyre simple enough for you potatoes to read and dont need batteries!

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO dial caliper.jpg, 28KiB, 900x365

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 20:45:35 No.894331 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>894330

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 20:59:07 No.894335 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>894330
Which Is what I said here

>>893180

They're fantastic as long as you don't drop them or let metal chips jam up the track.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 21:08:51 No.894341 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>893203
You cut the clock, batt power and ground traces and then soldered the battery power to the clock pad to bridge with the 1.5v pad?

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