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/BQG/ - Bike Questions General

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 00:29:14 No.888365 View Reply Report Delete

Quoted By:

Last one hit 300, time for a new thread, i'll start

If i am putting Shimano 105 on the end of bullhorn/pursuit bars, do i need to get bar-end/TT style brifters or do the default ones work fine?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20151020_200715.jpg, 3MiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 23:29:18 No.890897 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890898

>>890894
I'll recheck chain length and try an overhaul if this isn't it

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 23:35:09 No.890898 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890902

>>890897
Yeah your shit is all basically new. Should last for years. If it's a very subtle feeling it might mean the chain just needs to wear in a bit. I doubt that though. It should feel good.

I guess it's something about the RD.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 23:36:10 No.890900 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>888375
you're not gonna be doing much serious training with bloody bullbars. get a grip

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 23:43:08 No.890902 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890904

>>890898
Perfect. Btw its the same bike as
>>889328

I'll check the length again and overhaul just to make sure.

Thank you guys for always responding. Best bike forum

Angry Fredposter !!ABogTxbmkxF

Angry Fredposter !!ABogTxbmkxF Tue 20 Oct 2015 23:45:31 No.890904 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890912

>>890902
Use a fucking wrench to center the brake when you tighten it. That's what the wrench flats in front of the fork are for.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 23:53:33 No.890907 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>889328
The park tool website has a lot of reallly useful resources for this kind of stuff. Those old Dia-Compe brakes adjust pretty easily once you know how.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/sidepull-brake-service

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:03:48 No.890912 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890913

>>890904
I know, its not a centering problem tho. Re centered multiple times

Angry Fredposter !!ABogTxbmkxF

Angry Fredposter !!ABogTxbmkxF Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:05:55 No.890913 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890916

>>890912
It doesn't center because you haven't centered to compensate for the brake cable pushing down on the arm.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:14:03 No.890916 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890917

>>890913
I think I have. Hold brake down then center. It works but once I let go and push again one pad fucks up. Probably bent alto it doesn't look bent

Angry Fredposter !!ABogTxbmkxF

Angry Fredposter !!ABogTxbmkxF Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:16:24 No.890917 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890918

>>890916
You can't be this stupid. Center for pad clearance when the brake is open. Don't give a shit if one hits the rim first on a single pivot sidepull. You obviously didn't use a wrench for the centering flats.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:20:57 No.890918 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890920 >>890921

>>890917
Did that too. Pads clear fine once centered, problem is one pad simply doesn't rebound like it should. It barely moves back once released

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:24:14 No.890920 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>890918
Then you're not centering with the pads open.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:27:40 No.890921 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890922 >>890924

>>890918
Did it with pads open, closed, half opened. All had same results. Their centered but once I break they look like the picture. Even tried to off center to compensate, didn't work

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:31:06 No.890922 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>890921
Then you're not compensating for it. Keep turning it until it's centered like in the park tools link. I'm not sure why you can't grasp this.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:39:59 No.890924 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>890925

>>889328
>>890921
>Centering is fine but when I push the break lever the lever doesn't bounce back as it should. It slowly goes back and I have to push it up to make it go back up.
I don't think Angry Fredposter read your comment right, if the brake isn't opening back up it's probably because there's some grit, or a kink, in your brake cable. Apply some light oil to the cable itself where it enters the housing and see if that solves your problem.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 00:44:38 No.890925 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>890924
Even if there is grit, if he centers it like in the park tools page, it will be centered.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Chaintoolong.png, 283KiB, 732x309

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 23:47:01 No.891243 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891253 >>891284

>>890372
>>890370
>>890369
Thanks for all your help. I've been limping through the week until I have time to tinker with it on the weekend.
Thanks for reminding me about chain length. My chain looks like the left when my other bikes looked like the right so I figure it is too long. (Does what gear you have it in change the appearance that much?)

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO chainlength.jpg, 10KiB, 385x192

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:10:31 No.891253 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891258 >>891285

>>891243

Of course it does. Picture on the left is in the smallest cog, picture on the right is on the biggest. Think about it.

There's techniques for getting appropriate chain length, Sheldon Brown's one is my favorite, but the site is apparently dead for some reason. Basically you put the chain on the biggest chainring and biggest cog withouth going through either derailleur, and leave at least one full link overlap, then break the chain. Works wonders for me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:12:39 No.891255 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891300

How I do even stat racing if I wanted to get into it? I really like riding, and after running a few marathons I think it would be fun to do a bike race since I really like the race experience. I have no clue how to start though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:17:03 No.891257 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891264 >>891277

So I know next to nothing about bikes, so this might sound retarded. I have an old mountain bike which I've been riding, I'm not sure if this is an issue but the chain is really loud. Like I've rode with other people, and their bikes don't make the same noises. Whenever I pedal you can clearly hear the either the chain or the gears moving, especially up hills. It doesn't affect the performance as far as I know, I just think it sounds weird.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:20:57 No.891258 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891253
Small-small method is better if you are planning on ever using a larger cassette.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:38:03 No.891264 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891276

>>891257
We'd need more information than just 'sounds weird' to tell you whether there's anything wrong or not. For starters, look very closely at how all the moving parts on your bike are functioning: is something loose or tight? Is something squeaking for lack of lubricant? Is the chain meshing smoothly with the teeth on the chainrings, freewheel, and derailer pulleys?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:53:23 No.891276 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891264
I'm looking up Youtube videos, my guess is my derailleur is fucked. I'll try lube first, but I think the main problem is I need to index my gears, I had forgotten that shifting gears doesn't work smoothly so the sound might be related. I'll look at it in the morning.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:55:59 No.891277 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891257
>front derailleur is off
>rear derailleur is off
>chain needs lube
One of those things if it indeed is coming from the chain as you say.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 01:08:14 No.891284 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891243
Your gear ratio (both front and rear sprocket) definitely do affect it. The derailleur should be pulled pretty much as far forward as it can go (right pic) if you are in big-big (but the chain should not jam up), and it should be relaxed (left pic) pretty much all the way in small-small.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 01:17:49 No.891285 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891333

>>891253
>Sheldon Brown's one is my favorite, but the site is apparently dead for some reason
I have the entire site backed up offline and some other anons do too. If it stays down we'll bring it back.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 03:31:28 No.891300 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891341

>>891255
Where do you live? I know in Australia you have to join a club or something like that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 03:38:02 No.891302 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891361

What's the best lubricant for cables? On a motorcycle (clutch and throttle cables), but figure the application is pretty much the same on a bicycle's brake and shifter cables.

Not PTFE/Teflon lined, mind you. Service manual just says to use "Lubricate with rust inhibitor" and "aerosol cable lubricant".

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 09:36:21 No.891331 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891332 >>891361 >>891433 >>891444

Okay:
>exist
>be me
>get bike from friends dad
>everything shit
>can keep in gear
>I fix brakes
>today get a flat tire
>remove wheel
>see this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yT6FWZp8J0

What should I do? I got tools and stuff, should I just bang it straight at keep riding? This is just my hobo-bike, nothing fancy, don't wanna sink any huge amount of money into it. A new wheel would cost me $75.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 09:39:08 No.891332 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891334

>>891331
Your wheel is a private video?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 09:43:12 No.891333 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891285
Damn that just got my dick hard

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 09:45:35 No.891334 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891335

>>891332
Is it? You can't see it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 09:46:54 No.891335 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891334
Works now. And sorry, I have no idea.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 10:08:33 No.891339 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891336
>2015
>being racist
>the singer is also white
>hurr durr nigger music
>racism on a bike forum

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 10:15:07 No.891341 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891300
I live in Ohio, US. I guess you have to join a club here too. You need to pay for a license to even race. I was hoping it would be as easy as footracing, but ah well, I'll do some research for any local clubs.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 12:45:25 No.891361 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891412

>>891331
Do you have access to any scrapped wheels? I'd find one with a similar hub and borrow the axle and cones from it if you want the cheapest possible solution.

>>891302
>best lubricant for cables
Tri-flow

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 13:55:35 No.891378 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891562

I found a nice old bike for sale with a 1997 Shimano Nexus 7 IGH on it.

What can I do to check the hub for integrity? How wise is it to buy a hub this old and expect it to be reliable? How feasible is it to change the cog on a hub to move the gear range around?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 14:48:18 No.891398 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891431 >>891439

How can I use my 4 mile commute to train? In the city, so 5 stop lights and 1 corner.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 15:25:32 No.891412 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891361
Dad came home from work and we took it out, put it in a vice and banged on it with a rubber mallet so now it's pretty much straight. The wobbling disappeared, but the new (hand)brake on the back wheel is complete shit like the front brake so it's a real struggle to pedal now. I'll keep using my Kona Blast as commute bike and use this as a shit bike for now. Good to have a backup.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 16:19:45 No.891431 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891398
Take a longer route, get a good 15 min warmup and cool down. Cycle hard for 20-40 mins each way.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 16:24:19 No.891433 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891331
If it's just a bent axle, you should be able to score a new one for not too much money. Measure length & diameter just to make sure you don't fuck up when buying the new one.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO kcnc_k3_chainring_parent_01.jpg, 62KiB, 450x450

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 16:29:30 No.891434 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891437 >>891562

I remember at some point someone linked a site that let you compare different combinations of chainrings and cassettes. Does anyone know what site I'm talking about?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 16:46:01 No.891437 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891434
You mean gear ratio? Try www.google.com and type in "[chainring teeth] divided by [cassette teeth]" i.e. "52 divided by 11", the search results page will tell you the quotient (above the search results) and that's literally all you need to know, or just USE A FUCKING CALCULATOR

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 16:49:24 No.891439 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891398
HIIT or sprint the whole thing or take a longer route

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 16:52:02 No.891444 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891331
It may just be your axle, try replacing axle and cones as other anon said. Otherwise the entire hub is fucked and your best bet is find a cheap used wheel.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 22:18:09 No.891549 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>891559 >>891572

Is there anything I need to know about buying a helmet? Or is it pretty much just buy whatever fits?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 22:49:02 No.891559 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891549
1. Don't buy a skateboard helmet, they don't meet impact standards for cycle crashes.
2. Don't buy used/old helmets - helmets are only designed to take a single impact and the foam degrades over time.
3. Essentially all bike helmets regardless of price meet the same standards for protection, though a few manufacturers have some proprietary standards they claim go beyond regulations - but the more expensive kinds of helmets feature better ventilation, more better aerodynamics, extra side/neck protection for downhill MTB helmets, etc.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 22:57:25 No.891562 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Before anyone asks anymore questions in this thread, beware that it appears to be on autosage now.

>>891378
It's going to be impossible to check definitively without partial dissassembly. But if the rest of the bike has been well cared for, then I'd say the odds are pretty good the hub will still be in fair condition. And it's quite simple to change out the cogs on an IGH - but you should know that Shimano generally recommends you stick to a 2:1 ratio between chainring and cog.

>>891434
You might be thinking of this?
>http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
There are others online btw.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 23:27:07 No.891572 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>891549
If you plan on racing then you'll need a helmet with a compliance sticker.

Other than that your options come down to personal preference. Ventilation, aerodynamics, eye wear docking, colour, comfort, sun protection (visor + scalp coverage), ease of adjustment, room for winter beanie, provisions for mounting a light or camera, etc..

I'd say that a helmet is the one item that you shouldn't buy online. You need to try it on to see if it fits your head properly because if it doesn't and it vibrates and moves around it'll give you a head ache.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 23 Oct 2015 10:39:56 No.891688 Report Delete

Quoted By:

I have a shit bike that I'm replacing next spring, but I'm thinking of buying a trainer so I can stay /fit/ over the winter.

Will trainers work with any bike, even if they're shitty BSOs?

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