/vr/ - Virtual Reality » Thread #2763352

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49KiB, 500x500, mad_catz_mcb484800ma1_01_1_arcade_fightstick_for_xbox_1405459265000_1065421.jpg

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 14:36:06 No.2763352 View Reply Report Delete

What arcade joystick do you use to play MAME /vr/? Which ones would you recommend? Also I'm not a big fan of fighting games, so I don't care for pro tournament specs.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Stick12.jpg, 2MiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 20:48:58 No.2763881 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2763921 >>2764062 >>2764151

>>2763515
V.Nice! If you want transparent vidya these day you gotta make it :) Pic is mine.

For a PCB i like the Zero Delay encoders. Cheapest out there by a mile, and they work great. US$10-$12 for the basic model (PC/PS3), and about US$20 for the ZD:Rematch with the Home button function for PS3 (PS3/PC/360/PS2 - so PS1 also?).

I prefer Paradise Arcade for the other parts. They're not the cheapest, but they have a waaaaaay bigger range than anyone else. They must make of design almost half the stuff they sell, and you can't get it anywhere else. Their shipping and communication can be a bit wonky, especially recently when they moved back to the US mainland, but they get there in the end.

>>2763712
>>2763747
A lot of the time there NO soldering. The ZD encoder comes with all wires needed + connectors. Just make sure you get the right connectors for the parts you want to use.

When you find out how easy it is, you can solder a few wires if you want to, to customize things.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 21:11:13 No.2763921 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764067

>>2763881
That is badass. I know what my next project is going to be.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 21:13:20 No.2763928 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2763601
tfw resellers are asking ridiculous prices for these now

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 21:50:58 No.2764000 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764062

OP here, thanks for the replies guys. Maybe now I can start looking into this. I think I can try to learn basic soldering. I think there are little kids who do it to nerf guns so I should be able to do it.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 130517_trackball_rehab_01.53.jpg, 159KiB, 1024x768

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 21:57:04 No.2764014 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Can you even build a trackball for your custom joypad? Or is that more advanced?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:03:44 No.2764036 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764062

Anybody know of any reliable boards or kits that incorporate led backlighting? I really wanna make one of these for my next project . I'll just go with something reliable if no one is making a decent one with led accents. I suppose I could wire it up separately but don't really want batteries or extra cords.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:06:13 No.2764038 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764062 >>2764151

>>2763515
>Just screwed the shit into the plexi
Does it flex? Does it feel secure?

Because if it's solid I'd rather do that then fuck around with all that fancy shit

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:19:34 No.2764062 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764141

>>2764038
I'm not that guy I'm the other guy, but yeah, it's solid. 3mm plexi is fine for short runs, though I used 4.5mm on that pic and that's pretty tight. Had to file the Sanwa button tabs down just slightly, but nothing too complicated. I actually used 3mm galvanized steel for the top plate originally, but the metal sucked the heat out of my hands so fast I couldn't twitch right. The Perspex is much, much better, and it looks cooler anyway.

>>2764036
See >>2763881
Paradise Arcade Shop

>>2764000
Again, you don't even need to solder unless you want to get fancy. Just buy parts that will plug together.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:21:11 No.2764067 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2763921
TY ;)

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:25:33 No.2764072 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2763519
Not anymore. you can buy quick release wires.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:32:08 No.2764080 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764087 >>2764090

What if you wanted a pad for two players? Has anyone done this yet?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:35:01 No.2764087 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764091 >>2764096

>>2764080
You could just make it really big like an arcade panel.

People actually build sticks that are shaped like or taken from candy cab panels and stick the correct insides so that you can hook up a PCB and TV to the thing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:35:36 No.2764090 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764096

>>2764080
There are 2-player sets like the howler (actually 4-players) or the xin-mo 2-player one. Ozstick used to sell two-player setups as well, but i don't think he does complete joysticks anymore. The size of such a box gets pretty serious though, or pretty cramped.

There's also the x-arcade stuff - it's meant to be pretty robust.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:36:50 No.2764091 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764087
Called a Control Box. The Japanese have been big on them for years. There's also various Supergun projects floating around, although those tend to have the sticks/controls as separate.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:38:09 No.2764093 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764095 >>2764096 >>2764107

I change my mind. I'm going to build this but use an odroid instead of a pi. Not going to bother with batteries either. Just going to make it plug up.

http://www.instructables.com/id/MAMEFrame-The-battery-powered-MAME-system/

Going to start sketching stuff out tonight and compile a parts list of stuff I need.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:39:10 No.2764095 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764093
The built in projector is what really sold me on it. This thing is neat as hell.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:39:14 No.2764096 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764087
Will mame be able to tell the difference from two different sticks on one device?

>>2764090
Oh wow that looks neat but bulky, which is a good thing.

>>2764093
Perfect I'll look into this as well. Dammit /vr/ you're getting me excited now.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:46:10 No.2764107 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764114 >>2764117

>>2764093
I'd see this as a novelty rather than a serious setup. Little kit boards like that lack the power to play later stuff, and the projector is gonna have some lag and look like poop.

Then again, I have a whole computer set aside for groovymame via CRT.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:49:24 No.2764114 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764107
>groovymame via CRT.
It's the only way to live... well, actual hardware isn't bad either :)

I do agree about that Mame box, though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:51:57 No.2764117 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764121 >>2764126

>>2764107
Mainly it's just something to build. I kinda like the novelty of it all. I've got a whole different emulation setup already myself. I hadn't considered the projectors lag. I haven't really messed around with a lot of them. I guess I'm back to building a joystick. It would really suck to dump all that cash and wind up with something unplayable because I chose the wrong projector. I checked out paradise arcade shop btw. Thanks for the excellent resource.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:55:38 No.2764121 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764126 >>2764141

>>2764117
Buddy of mine works as a machinist. Going to pop into autocad or whatever he recommends when I get back and start mocking up an aluminum box for him to mill out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 22:58:27 No.2764126 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764140

>>2764117
I don't imagine the lag would be unbearable, just not optimal.

>>2764121
>Solid alu box
I wish I could do this.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:03:57 No.2764140 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764126
There are sites that have free software to mock it up and they'll mill it for you. It's kinda pricey though. I'm just really in a lucky position that I can get the milling done for free.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:04:43 No.2764141 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764157 >>2764168

>>2764121
Careful using all metal - as I noted above (>>2764062) the plate i used was too conductive, and would affect my hands and how well i could play even on warm days. I realise aluminium has a lower conductivity that steel, but i'd plan on skinning it with something at the very least.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20151027_200340.jpg, 4MiB, 4128x3096

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:08:32 No.2764151 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764160 >>2764164

>>2764038
>>2763881
hey guys thanks for comments! last time we had a stick thread I posted that one and another one I made myself and no one said anything.

to answer your question, nope no flexing or buckling at all on the stick or the buttons. I drilled everything very accurately and I'm actually using this one over my bigger one for 3rd strike and guilty gear.

also it may or may not be apparent but I shaved off alot of the white stuff from the plexi in the first photo. it looked like that because the dremmel tip I was using melted alot of the plexi into each other and the dust got on it. so I shaved it off and I'm much happier with how it looks now.

one last thing! alot of people near me complain about the microswitch clicking in the stick. do you guys think I could put some sound dapening foam in there and make it echo less since its plexi and wood? I've playing with a thick blanket over my lap before and that kinda worked but its really uncomfortable to play like that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:10:11 No.2764157 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764168

>>2764141
I might go with a tempered glass top on the box. If I do that will likely be one of the more expensive bits to get cut, sized, and drilled. I'll get it figured out. Anyways look for a post in the next few months. I've decided to do it therefore I will :) It's not my first rodeo building and fabbing stuff.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:11:23 No.2764160 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764161

>>2764151
I'm gonna sound like a total shill soon, if I don't already, but... Paradise Arcade does a silenced JLF kit, using non-clicking microswitches. I'm not sure if anyone else carries those, but you could check it out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:13:01 No.2764161 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764172

>>2764160
And come to think of it there's optical and magnetic options for the JLF too. Can't make any switch noise if you don't have mechanical switches.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:14:52 No.2764164 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764172

>>2764151
Having a sealed box would help, and throwing some deadening in there wouldn't hurt. Having a box with plexi sides and open gaps pretty much makes it a shitty drum.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:15:52 No.2764168 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764170 >>2764171

>>2764141
>>2764157

You should put a heater in it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:19:20 No.2764170 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764168
/thread?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:19:35 No.2764171 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764168
I was thinking I'd get the bottom slightly recessed with a raised lip going around the edge and cut and glue some rubber into the bottom so it doesn't freeze the family jewels so bad.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:19:37 No.2764172 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764195 >>2764261

>>2764161
shill is a /g/ word and only belongs on /g/ lol, don't worry man.
Is there anywhere i can buy the silent microswitchs assembled on a pcb? that'd be the cheapest and easiest option. I dont really want to spend $30 on the gamefinger switchless one.
>>2764164
I kinda dont want to make anymore major mods to the box case, I was just gonna put the foam in all the cracks and crevasses. how much noise reduction do you think I could get?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO joystick.png, 2MiB, 702x1492

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:20:02 No.2764173 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764179 >>2764186

don't build your own. Just buy a fight stick for cheap, and switch out the buttons with sanwa parts.

Here is my stick, Its nice and all, but it took a fuck ton of time to make. Back when I made it they weren't making new quality fight sticks (2007ish) so pretty much your only option was to build your own.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:21:15 No.2764179 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764190

>>2764173
I know there's not a lot of current running through there but that thing feels like a fire hazard.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:24:46 No.2764186 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764173
That's actually what I'm probably going to do. I'm not very good at wood shopping and I don't feel like buying quality pieces of wood or metal to make a case for the parts to go in.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:24:53 No.2764190 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764202

>>2764179
oh c'mon, my wiring isn't THAT bad

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:29:13 No.2764195 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764214

>>2764172
Same place. They have a few options. It looks like Sanwa itself does the JLF in a silenced version though, so mb someone sells just that plate with the Omron reed switches on it. You'd have to track down the part number...?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:29:56 No.2764202 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764190
so much fuzzy. There's a reason the inside of electronics aren't fuzzy.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:36:04 No.2764214 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764228

>>2764195

man, i really like the bump and sound of the switches. I might have to buy a few stock sanwa switches, take them apart and put the terminals inside the silent ones and solder them to my own board. I really like the wire pin harness.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:45:29 No.2764228 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764214
Can you do that? I think it's the fact it's a different mech like a leaf switch or something that makes it silent, not that the housing is sealed better. It might not fit in the stock housing.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO pSZVpnJ.jpg, 169KiB, 1280x960

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 00:15:26 No.2764251 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2763352

I've kind of always had an old PS3 Madcatz for general purpose fighting game use. Input delay stuff aside, it's not really noticeable when you play it.

Would like to build one too to be quite honest but I need some time and extra dosh I guess. And not being from Clapistan, buying parts is kind of hard. Especially if you wanna build something similar to pic related.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 00:23:48 No.2764261 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764325

>>2764172
you can buy the silent switches used in the Sanwa silent stick readily, but you're going to need a bigger actuator or else it's going to perform like shit.

Honestly, if you want silent you might just wanna go optical

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 00:24:27 No.2764263 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Buy Playstation everything then convert to everything else. I use a Pelican for my full-size heavy real arcade stick but there are tons of fun cheap Playstation controllers you could be using on PC and a whole bunch of non-retro consoles.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20151027_220011.jpg, 4MiB, 4128x3096

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 01:01:40 No.2764325 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764329

>>2764261
what I'm doing currently, just shoved a towel around the stick.

not silent but same if not better than playing with a towel wrapped around it

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 01:05:58 No.2764329 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764339

>>2764325
So did you cut the wood and plexi yourself? I don't have any tools like that on hand I wonder if a department store would do it for me. Also isn't there a dampener foam you could buy to muffle sound? But you won't get that cool see-through look anymore.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO CLBMu2fUMAEi5w4.jpg, 44KiB, 600x450

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 01:15:44 No.2764339 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764357

>>2764329
I cut the wood and plexi myself yeah, I was fortunate enough to have someone with a drill with step drill bits and a dremel.

I think you can get home depot to cut the wood and plexi. When getting plexi, get the poly carbon kind, not acrylic. Acrylic breaks so easily when drilling holes for the buttons.

the sound doesn't bother me, so I guess when theres no one around to be annoyed by i take the towel out.
Maybe I should sound proof one of my sticks with artwork underneath.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 01:28:27 No.2764357 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764359

>>2764339
Well it looks good man. I wouldn't care about the sound I don't think. Thanks for the help!

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 01:29:52 No.2764359 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764357
Any time anon!
if you need any help with planing just ask in this thread or any other stick thread here.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 11:25:52 No.2764825 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Anybody every just try to use a converter on the Saturn or Dreamcast sticks?

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