/vr/ - Virtual Reality » Thread #2688179

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Repair/Mod General - GameTechWiki

Anonymous Fri 18 Sep 2015 14:59:11 No.2688179 View Reply Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2692992 >>2720848 >>2740642 >>2741824 >>2744947 >>2745186 >>2762049

Mods, repairs, and technical questions go here. What are you working on?

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

The majority of problems with cartridge-based consoles can be remedied by cleaning the cartridge slot and the contacts of your games even if they are not visibly dirty. Consult the Game and Console Cleaning guide here:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

If you have any questions about a non-/vr/ console, try posting on the forum ( http://forums.gametechwiki.com/ ) and letting us know here that you did.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 18 Sep 2015 16:11:33 No.2688308 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2691275 >>2765331 >>2765357

Does anyone have experience fixing NeoGeo MVS controls?

My second player A button (and to a lesser extent B and C) "works" but it requires a really hard button press. I assume the connection is good, and maybe its just the contacts are worn down or something, since it does register the button press on occasion.

I figure if I'm going to do one, I may as well do the rest. I'll probably end up posting on the neogeo forums at some point regardless.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 19 Sep 2015 19:59:59 No.2690621 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Idk where to ask this but how good are VGA to Component converters because most 480p signals look like shit on my LCD unlike VGA signals like on my DC which look great

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 2015-09-20 00.38.23.jpg, 267KiB, 943x530

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 00:38:50 No.2691116 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2691272

How do I properly bend this pin back in place?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 02:51:26 No.2691272 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2691116
Push it up with a small flat head screwdriver.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 03:00:40 No.2691275 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2691296

>>2688308
I don't own one but are they are just rubber dome type buttons?
If so then clean the board contacts with rubbing alcohol or contact cleaner and wash the rubber parts in the sink.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO buttonswireHR.jpg, 700KiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 03:12:11 No.2691296 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765449

>>2691275
>>2691275
I took a look I think the microswitches are just wearing out.

They look like : http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/D413-R1AA/CH987-ND/4580798

I swapped my D button switches with my A button switches since obviously the D button ones wear out less and a lot of games only use the A button. None of my games even use the D button.

I'm looking for alternative switches. Those ones seem a bit expensive and they have a life of ~50k clicks, and for a game like Metal Slug thats probably going to wear out real fast.

Pic isn't mine, but thats what the underside of the controls look like.

If I can find some good switches I'll probably just replace them all (including the switches for the sticks), one of them has been replaced already by the previous owner.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 06:42:45 No.2691472 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2694942 >>2695263

Anyone know a good drop in replacement for a 7805C?

Preferably one that's free standing and doesn't need a heat sink.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 19:07:41 No.2692540 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2692601

Not a retro question but you guys might be able to answer it.

I have a PSP 1000 that randomly turns off. Wondering if this might be the power switch.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 19:29:17 No.2692601 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2692960 >>2692961

>>2692540

The OP tells you what to do if you have a non-retro question

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 21:51:00 No.2692960 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2692961 >>2692972

>>2692601
Yeah, I rather not register.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 21:52:00 No.2692961 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2692972 >>2693019

>>2692960
>>2692601
and besides, that form is dead

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 22:04:06 No.2692972 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2692976

>>2692960
>>2692961

And this imageboard isn't for modern consoles. Try /v/.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 22:05:32 No.2692976 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2692972
Yeah, I rather toss it out then.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 22:13:59 No.2692992 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2688179
my saturn was skipping on disc reading, I opened it up lubed up the gears, cleaned the laser, and unplugging and plugged the cd drive back in. It worked but, I want to know how can I prevent this from happening again other than those precautions.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 22:25:59 No.2693019 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2693046 >>2693223

>>2692961
>and besides, that form is dead
Probably because people like you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 22:40:17 No.2693046 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2693124

>>2693019
>Having to register for a no name form that no one is on to ask a question that will never get answered.

Have you even looked on there? Questions but no answers. No fucking thanks.

I'll take it to a more populated form before I register there.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 23:21:58 No.2693124 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2693130 >>2693151 >>2693223

>>2693046
>Have you even looked on there?
Since it came into existence, two people have asked questions in the repair forum, and I don't have an answer to either.
Two of the countless people who came to this thread to ask about things that aren't /vr/ related, most of them, like you, too lazy to even try.

Even if we gave you a fix, by your attitude you would have thrown it away anyway, because it would be too much effort.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 20 Sep 2015 23:25:09 No.2693130 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2693124
Naw, I fix retro shit all the time. I don't want to waste time buying the wrong part is what the thing is.

But thanks for that :^)

Kya !kDashing02

Kya !kDashing02 Sun 20 Sep 2015 23:32:39 No.2693151 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2693218

>>2693124
>and I don't have an answer to either.
For the GC related one, I found someone on assembler that sells them; Still haven't gotten around to ordering it though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 21 Sep 2015 00:22:31 No.2693218 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2693290

>>2693151
the best for the gamecube is the wasp add the megadrive and you are done, also like 2 weeks ago someone on the gamecube forims discovered autoboot for the wasp, dont go for the xeno, wasp+ megadrive cover everything perfect compatibility for the wasp, audistreaming for the megadrive so you have a 100% compatible cube zero lag.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 21 Sep 2015 00:24:40 No.2693223 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2693258 >>2694607

>>2693124
>>2693019
why would anyone will register in a dead forum?
To anyone with legitimate questions just go to assembler forums, gc forever or gba temp

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 21 Sep 2015 00:47:40 No.2693258 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2693223
>why would anyone will register in a dead forum?
The flaw in your argument is that the forum isn't dead, it's never been born. Because people have refused to post there because "registering iz 2 hard waa" there are few posts, which deters people willing to solve issues and people with issues.

Kya !kDashing02

Kya !kDashing02 Mon 21 Sep 2015 01:10:56 No.2693290 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2694607

>>2693218
Well, would you be able to drop a link or two so I can read up on it.
One of the big reasons Xeno interested me was it was a cheap route to Swiss, which is the big thing I'm interested in.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 21 Sep 2015 16:26:40 No.2694607 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2693290
>>2693223
forgot to add atari age
also
sd swiss autoboot zero lag
http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3046

look here megadrive v5 + wasp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mUmyn70-lg

dont go for v6 it sucks balls to install

also im waiting for this the hd gamecube cable solution
http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2500

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 21 Sep 2015 20:20:05 No.2694942 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2695260

>>2691472
You mean a pump or you're prejudiced against heat sinks?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:01:46 No.2695260 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2694942
More like I want to do a mod but one is in the way.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:04:14 No.2695263 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2695265

>>2691472
If you need a voltage regulator but a linear one is producing too much heat, use a similar switching regulator. The 7805SR-C should be a more or less exact replacement for the 7805C, 7.5+ volts in, 5 volts out.

Just asking, but what are you doing?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:05:41 No.2695265 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2695285

>>2695263
Top loading NES mod.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:18:02 No.2695285 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2695287

>>2695265
Heatsinks, always gotta be startin shit. Best of luck with that mod.

I'm torn on what to do with my SNES. It's an RGB-02, so it has the 2nd version of the video encoder chip in it. I want to install an S-Video plug into it, since the 2nd version doesn't support native component right off the chip. I'm just not sure if I should drill a new hole for it, or pull the RF module and use that hole or maybe widen it up a little.

Any thoughts, opinions?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:19:19 No.2695287 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2695285
Honestly, pull the RF. You're never going to use it.

And drilling holes though old plastic is a NIGHTMARE or can be.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 868401a3dc[1].jpg, 3MiB, 4128x3096

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:28:04 No.2695304 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2695307

Do you guys know if there's a way I can fix this?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:29:22 No.2695307 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2695318

>>2695304
Nope.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:37:37 No.2695318 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2695324 >>2759259

>>2695307
Sad. Some dumb fuck mailed it to me in a couple of bubble mailers.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:39:02 No.2695324 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2695325

>>2695318
I know how that is. I ordered a copy of Mario Maker and it came in one. I was pretty pissed too.

Try and get your money back.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 00:40:21 No.2695325 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2697224 >>2698592

>>2695324
I already messaged the seller about it, waiting to hear back. I'm mad now because I know for a fact it was pristine before he sent it.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO pinout.png, 261KiB, 1030x683

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 01:10:01 No.2695358 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2696040

Ok I got one for you guys.

I found a Turbografix 16 controller in a thrift store parking lot the other day, it's cord was cut, but was otherwise perfect shape. Anyhow I grabbed it, since I have a PC engine figuring it'd re-wire it with a Mini DIN connector and use it as a spare controller.

Only problem is the only PC engine controller I have is a Hori Commander, and the board is different so I have no idea what goes where, and Google has failed me.

Anyhow I've mapped out the colors in a spare 8-Pin DIN cable and crimped JST ends on it, but any help in figuring out which wire goes where would be hugely appreciated.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 2MiB, 2592x1936

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 01:53:07 No.2695390 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2695508

So the end of my Dreamcast controller has been coming out for a while. I've tried to avoid pulling it out, but I'm looking to get some lightguns and play House of the Dead and switching back and forth is obviously going to put some wear on it.

I don't know what to call the parts, so the black bit is coming out of the white bit and can come out far enough to start turning around.

I could just glue it back in but I figure that'll make fixing the wires later a nightmare, and I figure those wores are having a lot of unintended strain put on them every time I unplug the controller since they're the only thing holding it together.

Any advice?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 04:01:39 No.2695508 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2695390
I think dream cast cords are detachable inside.

If you can find a fucked controller but okay cord, you can switch them out.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO PC Engine Controller Pinout 2.jpg, 129KiB, 600x800

Anonymous Tue 22 Sep 2015 12:34:51 No.2696040 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2734958

>>2695358

Figured it out last nigh by reading what each leg of the 74HC157 IC does, and what each pin on the Mini DIN connector does, then following the traces on the PCB.

If anyone is curious, pic is attached (disregard colors, cable is likely gonna be different). Pin 1~8 on the DIN and JST connector should match up, with 9 going to shield.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 23 Sep 2015 00:27:33 No.2697224 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2698592

>>2695325
If he blames the post office you open a case on ebay (assuming ebay).

>Item not as described
Cite that packaging was inadequate.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 23 Sep 2015 17:56:16 No.2698209 Report Delete

Quoted By:

I switched the case on a Gameboy Color, everything worked great. Noticed some dust, opened it back up, got rid of the dust, now the thing wont power on. It'll barely light up, then die, like the batteries are dead but I've tried new batteries. Any ideas?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 23 Sep 2015 20:00:21 No.2698441 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2698827

Yo I posted on the forum with a GBA question, would love some help if anyone has any idea.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 23 Sep 2015 21:37:43 No.2698592 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2698820 >>2698854

>>2695325

What you've described is not even remotely approaching what we would consider adequate packaging, so you certainly have a case for a dispute.

A big bubble bag would have been moved as general freight which includes boxes and gets sorted in cages as it moves around the network. Your console would have been subjected to a hundred or more pounds of freight piled on it at any given time, which is going to be an issue if your packaging is inadequate.

Inadequate packaging also voids any insurance, but given how the seller cheaped out on shipping material I highly doubt he opted for any insurance.

>>2697224

He'll probably claim he has sent tons of things the same way and never had a problem. Whether that's true or not, being a lucky son of a bitch on other parcels doesn't make it okay to ship something like a console in a bubble bag.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 00:57:18 No.2698820 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2698854

>>2698592
I agree, even a box is not adequate.

>SNES and SNES advantage
>Literally just thrown in a box
>damaged 2 of the switches on the joystick and busted the snes shell to oblivion
He refunded me 50%, but I was still pretty pissed.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 01:02:54 No.2698827 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2698851 >>2704523

>>2698441

On the side, let's say that I had an unspecified portable game system and a pair of buttons were completely unresponsive while the rest of them worked fine, what sort of troubleshooting might I do in general?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 01:23:22 No.2698851 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2698902

>>2698827
Open it up, check the contacts, they may be worn out or dirty.
The bigger issue is if the actual connections are bad, but its more then likely just the contacts.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 01:24:36 No.2698854 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2699710 >>2702169

>>2698592
>>2698820
How would you guys suggest mailing anything? If it was just the console in a bubble mailer, it shouldn't of gotten harmed. A console should have a box though, just because it needs the space to fit the other stuff in, then in a box it needs padding so stuff doesn't hit each other but a cardboard box isn't going to keep it from getting damaged anymore than a bubble mailer would.

How would that spot be made while in post?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 02:05:09 No.2698902 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2704523

>>2698851

They didn't look dirty, but I followed a guide on cleaning remote buttons (eraser on the contacts, iospropyl alcohol on the actual buttons) and it works fine now. Thanks!

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 02:15:15 No.2698916 Report Delete

Quoted By:

So this is slightly off topic

I'm finally going back to school.

I'm a repairman by trade but have very little electronic knowledge, what sort of program/classes should I take to gain knowledge that would be useful in repairing my old game shit and CRTs?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20150924_095549.jpg, 861KiB, 2240x1344

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 10:00:58 No.2699380 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2699396 >>2699408 >>2700158

I accidentally dropped my copy of Demon's Souls (I know, not retro. Can still apply to retro games) and a little piece got chipped off on the edge. It still plays, but I don't know if this will affect the game in any way. Anyone knowledgeable in this type of situation?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 10:32:40 No.2699396 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2699408 >>2699410

>>2699380

Saying "I know, not retro" does not make it magically okay to post not retro

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 10:39:33 No.2699408 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2699414

>>2699396
Answering an odd non-retro question isn't lethal to you and has never caused thread deletion in the past.

>>2699380
Blu-ray discs are durable, but any crack can cause it to shatter in the drive at operational RPM.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 10:41:18 No.2699410 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2699396
You get the idea. It's a situation that can be applied to retro game discs. If I asked /v/, the thread would die really quickly with no helpful replies.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 10:42:18 No.2699414 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2699417 >>2700174

>>2699408
So, should I just find a new copy?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 10:45:21 No.2699417 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2700174

>>2699414
It's for the best. A shattered disc is a nightmare to clean out of any drive.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 12:51:12 No.2699574 Report Delete

Quoted By:

does it seems like everybody push's you to buy something "NEW" instead of actually popping it open and looking inside it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 14:42:22 No.2699710 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2700000 >>2701854

>>2698854
Box is always the best option but it depends what it is.

My procedure is what one would call excessive, but I get a lot of compliments in my ebay feedback about being well packaged so...

>wrap the individual items like a present in paper towel
>bag items in a ziplock bag (I've had one package ruined because it was left out in the rain, and it helps to keep things dry on the inside)
>push out all the air and zip it, then roll the end and tape it closed
>depending on value/number of components I may put them in another ziplock bag I usually individually bag things
>If its just a game, like an NES SNES or PS1/PS2 game I usually wrap in thin bubble wrap and a bubble mailer.
>Ifr its something like a handheld, or an expensive game, I take the bagged item, put in either more paper towel, brown paper or bubble wrap (depends what i have on hand)

I've also been known to reinforce edges or boxes with extra cardboard and duct tape.

Then again I'm a small time seller. It doesn't surprise me that big time sellers don't put in any effort.

Throwing in a dryer sheet can also be a nice touch, because it will suck up any of the bubble wrap or brown papers smell. A lot of the time the "cigarette" smell people claim is just from bubble wrap/shipping materials.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 18:19:51 No.2700000 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2700061

>>2699710
That is excessive. What to do figure your shipping materials come to?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 18:46:28 No.2700061 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2700000
Not too much.

I keep all boxes and bubble mailers that I get from ordering stuff online and use those. Same with bubble wrap and brown paper.

I usually just have ziplock bags and paper towel at home just because its a standard thing to have in the house. Packing and duct tape I bought a case of so theres a shitload of it in there, but I use it for other stuff.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 19:44:49 No.2700158 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2700236

>>2699380
I'd just get it on PSN or something

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 19:51:53 No.2700174 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2699414
>>2699417
Demon's Souls can commonly be found for only 10 bucks.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 24 Sep 2015 20:27:41 No.2700236 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2700158
Takes up too much space for the price. I knew I should've jumped on it when it was $5 a while ago.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 25 Sep 2015 18:41:57 No.2701854 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2702169

>>2699710
I almost exclusively use poly bubble mailers. For cartridge games I'll wrap them in more bubble wrap, but don't think it makes any difference just do it for the buyers.

I really don't think it matters how you ship stuff, unless you send an unsealed box. If it's going to get damaged cardboard isn't going to protect it any better than plastic. Am I wrong in my thinking?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 25 Sep 2015 21:26:48 No.2702169 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2698854
>>2701854

A box actually makes a huge difference in a parcel's survivability. The edges and corners of a cardboard box have a lot more structural strength than you'd think.

The key is to ensure the box is packed tight. You want all of the space in the box taken up by your items and packing material, with as little empty space in there as possible. Empty space will cave in effortlessly and compromise the box, allowing it to crush. Packing material will resist and spread out the load to protect your contents.

Your shipment has to share space on a plane or truck, and that means it could end up at the bottom of a heavy pile of freight. That's just how it is. Nobody runs over or impales shit with a forklift on a regular basis. Any carrier will have procedures and policies in place at to limit how much a parcel has to endure, so that nothing properly packaged should be in danger.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 27 Sep 2015 03:24:49 No.2704523 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2704753

>>2698827
>>2698902

So now that I've opened it up, the sound seems to be borked

Sometimes it plays fine and other times it doesn't play at all. Plays fine with headphones 100% of the time. I didn't touch much in that area, so I'm not sure what happened.

How can I diagnose the problem?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 27 Sep 2015 06:41:51 No.2704753 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2705301

>>2704523
Check the speaker and wires attached to it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 27 Sep 2015 15:13:41 No.2705301 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2706607

>>2704753

The speaker seems dirty, wires look fine to my untrained eye but I don't know what to look for.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 28 Sep 2015 02:58:18 No.2706607 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2706654

>>2705301
Run it with the case open and manipulate the wires, if the sound cuts out, they're the problem.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 28 Sep 2015 03:28:19 No.2706654 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2706607

I'll check this tomorrow, thanks anon

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 28 Sep 2015 13:01:58 No.2707349 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2708839

I have a Genesis 1 with some interesting issues. It only powers on if you hold the cable to the left and the power adapter makes a rather loud hum after being plugged in for a few minutes. It's an official 1602-1 power adapter.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 28 Sep 2015 21:46:51 No.2708306 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2710002

I recently bought famicom edition of Castlevania 3 and was wondering what be the most affordable option since I already got the famicom adapter in order to get the full power of the VRC6 and other expansion audio just modding the console or modding the adapter in order to get the full sound?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO what a dumbass.jpg, 373KiB, 800x861

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 05:22:02 No.2708825 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2709475 >>2766717

So in the process of trying to replace the dead motor in my PS1, I managed to fuck up what I thought would be the easy part by stripping both the screws that hold the motor in place (pic related). Any ideas on how I can either unfasten them now or just remove their heads?

Very limited tools on-hand, but if it requires some things I don't have I can always buy those later on.

Also feel free to shit on me for stripping them, I deserve it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 05:34:55 No.2708839 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2708940

>>2707349
Sounds like a broken (and shorted) barrel plug, console side. Stop doing that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 07:49:08 No.2708940 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2708839
So would I replace it with something like this?
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/dcj-1/2.1mm-dc-power-jack/1.html

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 14:28:16 No.2709462 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2709468

I need some advice

My snes is acting weird. Some games like Illusion of Gaia (And terranigma, repro and not repro connected with a PAR3) completely refuse to work on it, but work perfectly on a friends Snes

Not only this, but recently, always at the very same specific part in games, the screen the scrolls vertically. EX: At the company logo in Super Puyo Puyo, at the mist before the Giant Koopa boss in Yoshi's Island. Always at specific parts, never randomly.

I've been told it might be my pin connector, is that true? Anything else needed to repair it?

Thanks

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 14:32:43 No.2709468 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2709472

>>2709462

Forgot to add more details. Some other games works, but doesn't. Seiken Densetsu boots, but absolutely refuses to go in the file select menu, it just goes back to the booting screen, intro screen and title screen.

Other games like Radical Rex, the game start, then the screen scrolls vertically forever but no characters appears at all, the game seems to be locked there, I hope my snes isn't completely fucked

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 14:35:52 No.2709472 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2709468

*Seiken Densetsu 3 ... but I don't think it really matters

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 14:38:46 No.2709475 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2727123

>>2708825
in that sort of situation i've used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to make a straight notch through the head of the screws so i could use a flatblade screwdriver on them. alternatively, you *might* be able to grab them with a vice grip and break them loose. looking at your pic, though, they dont seem that badly stripped. you should be able to still get them with a proper sized phillips, which if you had used in the first place you could have avoided this whole mess all together.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 18:15:39 No.2709859 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2709881

I've got a green game boy pocket that for the most part, still works great. However, occasionally when pressing down on the d-pad, the game will react like I pressed the start button instead. Also, it comes in spurts, like for weeks at a time it won't happen, and then it will start happening so frequently that I'll have to stop playing. Anyone have any idea what is happening here? Is it some sort of weird intermittent short-circuit or something?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO gameboy1[1].gif, 30KiB, 970x720

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 18:27:41 No.2709881 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2709889

>>2709859
>when pressing down on the d-pad, the game will react like I pressed the start button instead
There's a problem with the key matrix.
It consists of 4 inputs and 2 outputs, one for the d-pad and the other one for the rest.
>Anyone have any idea what is happening here?
Hard to tell, maybe reflowing the solder of the CPU could help in case of dry solder joints or maybe some traces for the key matrix are fucked.

pic related is reverse engineered from the GB classic but still similar in operation, the pinout of the MGB-CPU is different and can be found here:
http://jazz-disassemblies.blogspot.de/2014/02/the-nintedno-gameboy-pockets-cpu-pinout.html

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 18:31:51 No.2709889 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2709912

>>2709881

Thanks for the info!

>maybe reflowing the solder of the CPU could help in case of dry solder joints

I don't have the equipment to do a proper re-flow but would putting the whole gameboy in a small cardboard box and heating it up with a hair dryer do the trick? I have a proper heat gun as well but I suspect that would damage the unit. I'd really rather not have to take it apart but if it comes down to that, I can. It can't be harder than replacing a screen in a PSP can it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 18:46:38 No.2709912 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2709925

>>2709889
>but would putting the whole gameboy in a small cardboard box and heating it up with a hair dryer do the trick?
Nope.
>I have a proper heat gun as well but I suspect that would damage the unit
Yes, this is quite correct but you could also cause damage with the proper equipment.
I think you could use that, just start slowly and on the lowest setting for 15 seconds or so and be careful not to burn your hands after you heated the board up, it's easy to underestimate how much and how long a circuit board can stay hot.
Basically you do that what people on youtube did to fix their xbox 360 with the red ting failure.
But before you start you should visually inspect the CPU and the traces of the buttons with an magnifying glass, maybe you can find something.
>I'd really rather not have to take it apart but if it comes down to that, I can. It can't be harder than replacing a screen in a PSP can it?
I don't know but there are no plastic hooks there, as soon the triwing screws (Y shaped) are out it gets loose.
Better be careful not to loose any parts when it comes apart.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 18:56:36 No.2709925 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2710167

>>2709912

I still need to order a triwing bit but amazon prime has them for cheap. Hopefully I can tackle this project over the weekend. If I remember I'll post results. Thanks again for the help!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 19:51:53 No.2710002 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2710201

>>2708306
Adapter is easier. Guide here:http://callanbrown.com/index.php/castlevania-iii-with-full-famicom-audio

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 21:17:05 No.2710167 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2710291

>>2709925
Do yourself a favor and order some liquid flux to put on the areas you are reflowing as well. It will make the solder heat quicker with lower temperatures and flow onto the legs and pads of the cpu. If it's a leg less cpu (BGA), use the brush in the bottle to put it under the chip and use the heat over the chip itself. Big thing is to use small circular motions and not stay in one spot too long. Good luck.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 21:30:32 No.2710201 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2710002
Forgot to mention if there is anything else i should do since i do have a stereo mod on my NES should i mod the adapter pins and get the ENIO Exp board?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 29 Sep 2015 22:28:13 No.2710291 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2710687

>>2710167
>liquid flux

This is also on Prime for cheap. Nice!

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Sep 2015 04:26:35 No.2710687 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2711051

>>2710291
Pick up some 97 or 99 percent rubbing alcohol too for cleanup. Do not use the cheap 95 percent or lower solutions as they contain water that is corrosive. Good luck again.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Sep 2015 10:55:58 No.2711051 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2711675

>>2710687
>Do not use the cheap 95 percent or lower solutions as they contain water that is corrosive.

Unless you live underwater in a swamp, the 5% water in the 95% alcohol is going to evaporate hours before corrosion would think about starting.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Sep 2015 15:44:31 No.2711578 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2711691

anyone know how to remove the yellowing of a console? talking about dreamcast/snes mainly.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Sep 2015 16:24:15 No.2711675 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2711051
You can usually even get by with 70%.

However, you should definitely be -trying- to get 99%

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Sep 2015 16:33:53 No.2711691 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2715495

>>2711578
Look up Retrobrite.

Its basically Hydrogen Peroxide and Oxyclean

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 30 Sep 2015 20:59:08 No.2712105 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2713617

I just got my front loader, presumably pal (it was given to me by an uncle, I have no idea where he got it) nes out from storage upstairs last night, only to find that:

>it has no power cable
>double dragon was sitting in the catrdge slot as if ready to play

Will any power cable that fits the nes and is the right voltage/amps work? Will leaving a game in the nes like that damage it? (I have no case for the game unfortunately) Also wanna know if the red/white av ports on the side are needed for play. I'm assuming that picture would come through the aerial port or sound through the av cables...? but for now I have no way to test it

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 01 Oct 2015 18:12:09 No.2713617 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2712105
>it has no power cable
The original is 9Vac, 1.3A and a classic quality transformer with fuse.
>Will any power cable that fits the nes and is the right voltage/amps work?
You can simply take any other power supply with the right barrel plug (2.5x5.5mm) which either outputs 9-12V AC or DC and 1-1.5A, polarity doesn't matter here.
You should be able to buy such a power supply on eBay or whatever you like.
Usually there are many intended for LED strips or maybe some laptops but DON'T buy a aftermarket power supply which is 'made' for NES or other retro systems, these suck ass.

>double dragon was sitting in the catrdge slot as if ready to play
Well, the PAL version of that game (if it's the first) is kinda rare IMO.
>Will leaving a game in the nes like that damage it?
For a long time it could but it sure can be fixed if you take your time and be patient, you properly have to bend every pin manually with some safety pin or fine screwdriver.
Aftermarket 72pin connectors are also not recommended as they don't have any gold coating like the original one and can fuck up your games.
To ensure that cartridge based consoles work reliably, you should clean every game you get and simply don't insert games that aren't clean. Simply keep the console and cartridges as clean as possible then they work perfect every time, like mine.
My NES,SNES,N64 and GB always work on the first try, if not then on the second or third attempt and that happens very rarely.
>Also wanna know if the red/white av ports on the side are needed for play.
Yes, simply plug some good RCA cables into the video (yellow) and audio (red) jacks on the side to the AV input of your TV and you should be ready to go.
>I'm assuming that picture would come through the aerial port
RF jack is white and on the back, you don't need this shit and better follow the above advice.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO RkV08MQ.jpg, 381KiB, 1408x1056

Anonymous Fri 02 Oct 2015 17:02:21 No.2715480 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2715495 >>2715498

Gonna buy this for very cheap.
Any good way to remove the yellow tint?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 02 Oct 2015 17:17:05 No.2715495 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2715498

>>2715480
See >>2711691

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 02 Oct 2015 17:19:23 No.2715498 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2715504 >>2715523

>>2715480
>>2715495
You're better off painting it, when you use Retrobrite it will come back within 4 years so it's kinda pointless.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 02 Oct 2015 17:21:17 No.2715504 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2715498
Four years sounds alright.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 02 Oct 2015 17:34:31 No.2715523 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750785

>>2715498
Because it's a natural reaction in the plastic, and will also compromise its strength, so throwing paint on it and ignoring it will only detriment you.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20151003_133620079.jpg, 2MiB, 1440x2560

Anonymous Sat 03 Oct 2015 17:42:22 No.2717336 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2717337 >>2717461

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 03 Oct 2015 17:45:02 No.2717337 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2717347 >>2717461

>>2717336
fucking phone, ignored all I wrote.

So, I got a PAL Mario land (I live on NTSC land) and no matter how many times I try, I always get pic related when I try to play it.

Already tried on a GB, a GBC, a GBA SP and a Super GB, all with the same results.

Already opened it up to see if there's any issue with it but I couldn't find anything, I also checked continuity and all pins seem to be properly connected to their corresponding legs.

Afaik, the GB is not region locked, so what could cause this problem?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 03 Oct 2015 17:58:31 No.2717347 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2717424

>>2717337
have you tired cleaning the pins? Glitched nintendo logo is sign that gb cant read the cart.

And yes, GB is not region locked.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 03 Oct 2015 18:36:55 No.2717424 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2717347
yeah, I cleaned them shiny, it should be working but the thing that bugs me is that it is always glitched in that exact way, on all gb's I've tried. I hasn't worked not even once since I got it, always that exact glitched Nintendo logo.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 03 Oct 2015 19:06:34 No.2717461 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2717468 >>2717858

>>2717336
>>2717337
Okay anon.
I just spent some time figuring out how exactly this:
http://gbdev.gg8.se/wiki/articles/The_Cartridge_Header#0104-0133_-_Nintendo_Logo
was build up and I wanted to know it anyways.
I can tell you that D6 is shorted to power (judging from the nice pic you posted), or in other words it's always 1 and never 0.
That must be pin 28 on the cart edge, pin 32 is ground and pin 1 is power (5V).
Measure if you have a short to power on that pin, if not then inspect the pin of the ROM.
I do have a defective Commodore character ROM, where one data pin is internally shorted to power and the difference between that and yours is that this one is NMOS where Nintendo's ROMs are mostly CMOS.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 03 Oct 2015 19:09:17 No.2717468 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2717858

>>2717461
Made a mistake.
It's D5 and it's cart edge pin is 27.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO rainbow.jpg, 874KiB, 1440x1384

Anonymous Sat 03 Oct 2015 23:05:22 No.2717858 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2718460

>>2717461
>>2717468
I checked all pins to 3 and 30, none of them are shorted to neither 1 or 32. (2 and 31 are unused)

This is how they're connected.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 06:59:03 No.2718359 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2718375 >>2718494 >>2718665

So I just bought a game gear and I was wondering what is the DC in used for?
Is it to play it without batteries?
Can I use any 9V DC or only specific ones?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Screenshot_2015-10-04-06-14-19.png, 748KiB, 1920x1080

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 07:15:26 No.2718375 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2718384 >>2718494

>>2718359
10V

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 07:21:21 No.2718384 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2718494

>>2718375
I've read that only in America 10V works, it's also written next to the input 9VDC

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO cypress-1[1].jpg, 28KiB, 400x235

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 08:36:04 No.2718460 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2718771

>>2717858
Now this is starting to get weird.
Perhaps the bonding wire (the connection between outside pin and silicon die) got damaged but that doesn't make much sense as this ROM never gets hot nor is it prone to electromigration as the current was always very small (<1mA) in normal circumstances.
You can find this out by measuring these two ESD protection diodes (see pic) which are on every pin, if you don't know how to measure diodes then ask google.
If you can't measure the proper forward voltage of around 700mV then it's open and it would explain why the CPU reads a 1 on that pin because if you turn on a GB with no cartridge then you simply get black block instead of the Nintendo logo as the CPU only reads 0xFF (D0-D7 are 1) on the data bus at address 0x0104-0x0133.

>I checked all pins to 3 and 30
You don't need to do that, only pin 27.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO ACAdaptor_GG_EU_Box_Front.jpg, 310KiB, 732x557

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 09:38:42 No.2718494 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2718359
>>2718375
>>2718384
for whatever reason, the PAL region game gears use the earlier, thicker, master system/megadrive model1 style power adapters.

pic related

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 11:56:55 No.2718665 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2719286

>>2718359
I found 6 batteries and turned the thing on,
now, the screen can only be seen at a weird angle, but that's alright,
I'm worried though because there is no sound, what could it be?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 13:33:40 No.2718771 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2718460

>I checked all pins to 3 and 30
>You don't need to do that, only pin 27.

whoops, I meant from 3 to 30, just to make sure none of them were shorted to 1.

I'm gonna check those protection diodes.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC_0054.jpg, 2MiB, 3840x2160

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 19:04:57 No.2719245 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2719637 >>2738998 >>2739040 >>2765412

Here's a tough one: this original PS1 dualshock was in perfect, mint condition, until I used this motherfucker chinese adapter to play on my PC with it. After using it a couple of times, now the X button is dead. It doesnt work even in the console.

Is there anything I can do, not being an expert electrician? I assume some connector got burned out or something, but it somehow only affects that one button. Any ideas?

Pic related, its my controller and the fucking adapter I wish I never bought

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 19:37:50 No.2719286 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2718665
Replace the capacitors.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 04 Oct 2015 23:07:29 No.2719637 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2720562

>>2719245
Without being able to tell with a multimeter exactly what voltage the adapter is sending to the controller, and without being able to see the controller's PCB to look for damage, no, we really can't help you. If you want to take a multimeter to the adapter or open the controller up and show us the PCB, we might be able to help, otherwise what do you expect us to be able to do?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 00:14:52 No.2719747 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2720186 >>2720310 >>2721580

Could I take a SNES advantage or NES advantage board and convert it to use real arcade components? Seems like an easy way to refurbish my busted button sticks and get superior quality.

Im not at homefor the next few days so I can't look at the boards.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 05:43:07 No.2720186 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2720334

>>2719747
If you want to make a new enclosure for it then it's definitely something you could do.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 08:16:18 No.2720310 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2720334

>>2719747
I got my super advantage and score master this weekend. Stripped them down to clean inside and out.

Hey are rather shallow, so would struggle to fit full size arcade buttons

You could install tactile switches under the buttons in place of rubber domes and wire them to the PCB.

I'm making a shed arcade stick using proper arcade stick and buttons, a Tupperware enclosure and a Chinese SNES controller PCB / cable.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 08:37:24 No.2720334 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2720186
>>2720310
I'd definitely be building a case for it. The shell is smashed on my SNES advantage and it doesn't let me use the turbo switches because its so bashed up.

I would just use a standard SNES/NES controller but I do kinda want the extra features the advantage controllers have, like turbo, auto-fire, etc.

I'll probably end up ordering some buttons and a stick then. I never cared for the squishy feel of those advantage sticks.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 11:58:35 No.2720562 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2719637
Well, your post alone is telling me where to start checking what's the problem. Thanks.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC00098.jpg, 859KiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 15:39:59 No.2720848 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2720852

>>2688179
I just repaired my N64 PSU (230V).
I guess my hacked together MultiAV plug shorted 12V (added via a diode 1N4007) to ground and the "voltage monitor" failed to sense the drop fast enough and didn't shut it off and this caused that the fuse for 12V tripped.

Careful inspection revealed that this PSU has at least 5 protection components:
-Picofuses with 125V 5A for 3.3V (ICP2) and 2.5A (but a 2A was installed instead) for 12V (ICP1), located near the silver heatsink
-Thermofuse 125°C on golden looking heatsink for the transistor Q1
-Thermoresistor R2
-Subminiature fuse 250V 1.6A right after the mains connector
Now there's a voltage monitor that will shut off both voltages if one of them is outside the correct range, if that happened then it needs to 'cool off' by disconnecting the PSU from mains for around 15 minutes.
Now the lack of 12V always causes it to shut off 3.3V, but it still allowed it to rise as I could see that the LED on the N64 flashed if I plugged it in.

Now that I got it running, I measured the voltages and with 3.2V; 10.5V they were little lower than they should be.
I thought that the 470ohm trimmer R33 was for output voltage adjustment and I was right, it increases or decreases both of them.
So it's very important that 3.3V is correct as it powers most important stuff directly, 12V isn't critical as it only goes to a 78M05 (5V for video/audio ICs), cartridge slot (only used by very special cartridges like the Wide-boy64) and the expansion port on the bottom.
Now what's quite weird is that the voltages increase a little bit if a load is attached (which is the opposite of linear transformers).
That's why it should be adjusted to 3.1-3.2V first with no load attached and then to around 3.35V with a load of around 1.7A on it along with a load of 100mA on the 12V rail or you could just stuff the bare PSU into the N64 and adjust it in there like I did.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC01773.jpg, 771KiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 15:43:01 No.2720852 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2720863

>>2720848
I salvaged a small 2A SMD fuse from some old PCB from a HDD.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC01772.jpg, 768KiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 15:48:35 No.2720863 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2720871

>>2720852
And this is a quite practical way to accidentally commit suicide, if a certain one lacks the experience.
I attached the probes before connecting to mains.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 15:52:07 No.2720871 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2720878

>>2720863
>this is a quite practical way to accidentally commit suicide
Please, if you're old enough to understand repairs like this, wall current isn't going to kill you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 15:55:38 No.2720878 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2720871
I know, I couldn't think of something funny right now.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 20:59:28 No.2721374 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765713

Can anyone tell me why my Neo Geo CD's laser is fine, yet the drive motor won't spin the disc, even though the motor spins when a 9 volt battery is applied to its power terminals?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 05 Oct 2015 23:22:45 No.2721580 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2723117

>>2719747
You can quite easily add arcade buttons to the PCB but the actual housing might not accommodate them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Oct 2015 13:55:39 No.2722575 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2722635

What's best cable to use for NON-VGA Dreamcast games?

Kya !kDashing02

Kya !kDashing02 Tue 06 Oct 2015 14:31:52 No.2722635 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2722638 >>2722953

>>2722575
Have RGB capable TV/Monitor? RGB SCART
Don't have RGB capable TV/Monitor? S-Video
Dreamcast has a quite nice quality S-Video signal in my experience.

Kya !kDashing02

Kya !kDashing02 Tue 06 Oct 2015 14:33:07 No.2722638 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2722953

>>2722635
I also forgot to mention, there are a few games that don't work with RGB(without editting the disc image) either, so keeping an S-Video cable handy isn't a bad idea either way

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Oct 2015 17:23:13 No.2722953 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2723909

>>2722638
>>2722635
I've read that it's also possible to patch games to VGA and then burn them. Does this work, and without any glitches?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Oct 2015 19:04:13 No.2723117 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2723226

>>2721580
Im not super experienced with circuitry.

Theres nothing really special required about swapping non-microswitched buttons for microswitched ones right?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO GDROM wormgear.jpg, 53KiB, 667x500

Anonymous Tue 06 Oct 2015 19:34:03 No.2723169 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2723914

I'm going to be lubricating my DC's wormgear tomorrow. Should I use some on the plastic gears as well?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSCN2477.jpg, 149KiB, 1600x1200

Anonymous Tue 06 Oct 2015 19:56:04 No.2723226 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2723117
It shouldn't be too difficult but the snes super advantage has very low clearance and the holes are small so arcade buttons would likely not fit.

Do you mean to replace the rubber membrane things with tactile buttons? That should work without too much effort.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 07 Oct 2015 03:47:06 No.2723909 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2722953
Or does this depend on the game?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 07 Oct 2015 03:50:30 No.2723914 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2723169
Sure, use white lithium grease.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 07 Oct 2015 04:10:51 No.2723929 Report Delete

Quoted By:

I have no experience with modding. I've been considering getting a Saturn, and I was wondering - how high is the mess-up potential in modifying a 50hz console to run at 60hz? My only alternative's buying a Japanese console and hoping the power converter doesn't fuck it up.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20151007_001322.jpg, 201KiB, 960x1600

Anonymous Wed 07 Oct 2015 08:41:20 No.2724161 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2726052

Not exactly retro, but:
My Micro has had marks on the screen that I assumed were water damage, until I took the faceplate off and took a closer look.
It's something dried on the surface of the screen, so it's something I could clean.
My question is, what's the best way to do so without damaging the screen? I'm concerned a dry Q-tip might scratch it and I don't want to apply water or alcohol without being sure of it.
Also I'm aware the rest of it needs cleaning, that's beside the point.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 07 Oct 2015 08:46:01 No.2724165 Report Delete

Quoted By:

I want to patch my PAL DC games to VGA through a hex editor, do I have to use 0799A10 or does PAL need 0019A10?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 07 Oct 2015 12:32:42 No.2724440 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2724450

my retron 3(laugh) screen scrolls all the time. I can sort of fix it by having the video cable just barley connected but it's not perfect?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 07 Oct 2015 12:41:01 No.2724450 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2724467

>>2724440
Solution: don't buy hyperkin products anymore.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 07 Oct 2015 12:51:19 No.2724467 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2724476

>>2724450
so what would you suggest me buy?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 07 Oct 2015 12:56:57 No.2724476 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2724467
Original hardware, or just an HDMI cable and a PC controller. The Retron is just a bizarre, poorly built halfway point.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 08 Oct 2015 04:34:43 No.2725962 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2726057

I'm experiencing a weird issue with a snes controller I got at a yard sale. It works perfectly fine, as long as you only ever press any button one at a time. If you press two inputs at once, the game behaves as though there is no input at all. IE in Megaman X I cannot move to the left while jumping, and in LoZ I cannot walk diagonally. What could be causing this? I scrubbed the pads--no dice.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 08 Oct 2015 06:34:21 No.2726052 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2726141

>>2724161
The dollar store has a screen cleaning kit with a microfiber cloth. Spray on the cloth first, not directly on the screen.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 08 Oct 2015 06:36:11 No.2726057 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2726594

>>2725962
Did you clean both the rubber pads and the contacts on the board?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 08 Oct 2015 08:21:07 No.2726141 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2726052
Noted, thanks.
I suppose I should have mentioned for those unfamiliar with the Micro that when the faceplate is taken off as in pic, the LCD is exposed, hence my trepidation.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 08 Oct 2015 14:52:38 No.2726594 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2726057
Well I did my best on the board too, but after swapping parts between two broken controllers I am starting to think I didn't clean it hard enough.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 08 Oct 2015 16:35:15 No.2726743 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2732874

So My Saturn suddenly stopped working today. The disc drive just won't spin at all.
It was working fine just yesterday. I didn't move it around or anything.

I opened the Saturn once to wrap the disc tray switch-thing with tape so that it would let me open the lid while spinning the disc to perform disc swap (I only did disc swap once, to install pseudosaturn on my AR4 cart).

When I turn the Saturn on, the lens moves, but that's all it does. Discs won't spin.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 08 Oct 2015 20:26:06 No.2727123 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2727223 >>2727549

>>2709475
Phillips head screws are terrible, even with the right size driver you can still strip the screws due to excessive force required on some of them. My headphones for example only had 1 out of 6 phillips head screws removable without them being dremel'd into flatheads.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 08 Oct 2015 21:39:49 No.2727223 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2727393

>>2727123
Driving it in a small amount before trying to remove it does a lot to prevent that, with the added benefit of an orgasmic click if the screw hasn't been moved in a long time.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 08 Oct 2015 23:19:44 No.2727393 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2727223
Is that so? I'll take that into consideration in the future when dealing with phillips head screws, thanks.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 01:09:12 No.2727549 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2727123
Nope. You're just using the wrong driver.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 07:52:59 No.2727909 Report Delete

Quoted By:

I bought a lot of Metal Slug 1-4 and X on MVS.

1 2 and 3 work fine (well, one could argue that 2 being on perma-slow down is not "fine") but 4 and X are wrecked.

I've tried in all my slots. 4 doesn't shot half the graphics and then green screens if you make it through character select. X seems to have issues just straight up booting up.

Any ideas if I can even fix them? I cleaned the contacts after testing initially hoping it would fix it, but nothing. Then I took them apart and cleaned the rest of the board and its still doing the same thing.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO screen.jpg, 3MiB, 4128x2322

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 19:59:04 No.2728936 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2728965

Anyone have any idea whats wrong with my Robotron 2084 arcade?

I've heard it's a bad rom chip on the video board but I'd like to be sure before I shell out a 100 dollars for a repairman to come fix it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 20:19:23 No.2728965 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2728984

>>2728936
Need more info. Looks like it's stuck in the startup tests. Knowing exactly where will give you a clue as to what's wrong. What happens before it stops? Do the startup sounds play?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 20:29:52 No.2728984 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729001

>>2728965
I plug it in and get that. If I leave it on a bit the screen wipes black from one side to the other and then that happens again.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 20:40:46 No.2729001 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729008 >>2729014

>>2728984
Does that random colored pixel page wipe from left to right before and/or after it wipes to black. Also, sound?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 20:45:26 No.2729008 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2729001
No sound. The screen wipe does happen from left to right.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 20:49:57 No.2729014 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729148

>>2729001
To be more descriptive the screen turns black and the pink snow actually scrolls from left to right like it's trying to reset but failing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 22:03:27 No.2729148 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729158

>>2729014
Any details on what happened before the problem started? Is this machine new to you, has it been in storage for a long time, did it get moved and just stop working?

The pink snow moving is part of the normal startup. It should wipe then "scroll" and maybe repeat if the batteries are dead. But it should display some text in the black screen in between and after.

Probably the most you're going to manage to do on your own is reseat the roms. If you've done this before and and comfortable with it give it a try. There's a good chance it will improve things, if not fix everything. If not there's not much you're going to do on your own.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 09 Oct 2015 22:10:09 No.2729158 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729372 >>2729373

>>2729148
>Any details on what happened before the problem started? Is this machine new to you, has it been in storage for a long time, did it get moved and just stop working?

I bought it off a comic store owner. I used to play it at his shop. He said that it stopped working after a while and it was getting too expensive to keep fixing. People would come in and really abuse the machine, anime con people. He left it down in storage for a good while before he sold it to me. I loaded it up in the back of a van where it was stable and then stuck it in my living room. I got it on the cheap because I was planning on fixing it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 10 Oct 2015 00:37:08 No.2729372 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729492 >>2731450

>>2729158
The bits that usually need fixing are on the panel where people abuse it. The guts are pretty sturdy as evidenced by it lasting as many years as it has. Unfortunately I'm guessing that if someone who had been fixing it for years gave up on it it's probably not a simple fix. Still, it's worth reseating everything to see what happens. It's not going to make it worse and might save you paying someone else to do it, because that's the first thing anyone is going to do.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 10 Oct 2015 00:37:41 No.2729373 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729492 >>2731450

>>2729158
The best thing you can do is give the board a good, hard look over.

Look for scratches, damaged components, excessive dirtiness, or anything that looks wrong.

Also, if you go look up lukemorse1 on youtube, he has a lot of arcade board repair videos. You'll have to go back a bit for the better ones, but there's good info on what to look for and how to fix it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 10 Oct 2015 01:52:38 No.2729492 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2729372
>>2729373
Thanks anons, I'll do that when I get home. I planned on giving it a good clean anyway. There's a bit of wico grommet rot. While I'm not confident with the electric part of the repair, the mechanical part I can do.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC_0236.png, 2MiB, 1440x1080

Anonymous Sat 10 Oct 2015 07:10:29 No.2729828 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729835

I have this Game Boy that I found at a thrift shop for cheap, but the screen has a blank space on the right. It's blank, cutting off the picture, but I noticed vertical lines sometimes show up in that space. Is there a way to fix this?

Sorry for the dim screen in the picture...I took it at a game shop...I don't own any GB games, and I didn't realize that the screen wasn't showing well in the picture until I got home.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 10 Oct 2015 07:18:36 No.2729835 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729847 >>2729853 >>2733163

>>2729828
Yes and no

The ribbon cable they used to attach the screen to the board was glued on. That glue has dried up and has come loose, thus loosing contact.

What I've done with some success is taking the rubber strip off protecting the cable and heat it with a low temperature with my soldering iron. Rub back and fourth on the problem spot but do NOT leave it in one place for too long, you will burn though the cable.

I do this while the Game boy is turned on with the contrast all the way into the black so I can see the lines. You should see some of them start to flicker. When that happens wait about one second and then push on the cable with a flat head screw driver.

If done right, the glue will turn back into a semi stick stat and re-attach to the screen.

I've done this with some success. Some Game Boys I've fixed this way have stayed fine after, while others showed the problem again the next day.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 10 Oct 2015 07:32:48 No.2729847 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2729853 >>2731187

>>2729835
I did this different:
>You should see some of them start to flicker. When that happens wait about one second and then push on the cable with a flat head screw driver.
I just let it cool off and if it vanished again then I repeated it over and over again.

>while others showed the problem again the next day.
The one I did stayed fine for 4 years because I didn't used double sided tape for the rubber strip. The one I did a few months ago was more worse than anons, half of the lines on the entire screen were missing and it took me 4 hours to solder them back and it still works nice.

Also put double sided tape on the rubber piece and put it back, or else it won't last at all.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 10 Oct 2015 07:38:57 No.2729853 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2729835
>>2729847

Thanks...I'll give this a try. I don't really have anything to lose if I fuck up.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 10 Oct 2015 22:56:41 No.2731187 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2729847
Hmm, alright.

Can the cable really take that much heat being applied to it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 01:22:31 No.2731450 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2731564 >>2731692

>>2729372
>>2729373
I cracked the sucker open and saw a LED that was spitting out an error code. 1, 2, 5. So 1 is the code for ram, 2 is second column row 5. least I know now.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 02:44:19 No.2731564 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2731450
chips on the board i mean.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 04:49:37 No.2731692 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2731787

>>2731450
Swap that chip with one next to it to confirm the error code changes and replace the defective chip. Or not if the chip actually just needed to be reseated.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 06:32:58 No.2731787 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2731813

>>2731692
chips seated fine. Does that work? Can I just swap one chip for another? I thought you had to program the chips?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 06:39:45 No.2731792 Report Delete

Quoted By:

A new soundtrack for Meridian 59 with all of the old ones and some new ones.
https://soundcloud.com/kaybeccab/jala3

Just a test track. Kinda shit.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO NesSnesPinout.png, 12KiB, 338x187

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 06:59:46 No.2731805 Report Delete

Quoted By:

I made SNES > NES and a NES > SNES controller adapters by rewiring a pair of controller extennsion leads.

Used the pinout guide in pic.

They both work fine for their respective consoles and controllers, so I am positive that I have wired them correctly. All buttons work etc.

Only problems I face are as follows:

Official NES controller doesn't seem to connect properly 9/10 times. No connection seem to be loose and the controller works fine on my NES.
If I use the NES advantage it works 100% fine.
If I use an official NES controller with a replacement chinese connector, that works fine too.

Secondly; using the adapter on Mario Allstars, controls are picked up fine, but as soon Mario 1, 3 or Lost levels are selected, they will load and then reset back to the title screen.
Mario Bros 2 (USA) doesn't have this problem.
If I use a SNES controller to get Mario 1 or 3 ec. into the map screen or a level and then switch to a NES controller with adapter, everything works fine.

I ensured there are no bridged connections. The pins are all seated in the pastic properly etc.

Any ideas Anons?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 07:15:05 No.2731813 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2732870

>>2731787
The problem is a RAM chip (small ones on the CPU board) not a ROM chip (big ones with labels on the ROM board). If you swap the ram chip with one next to it the error message will change if that's the problem. For example from 1,2,5 to 1,3,5. That's the simplest way to confirm if the ram chip is bad of it it's something else (bad socket, trace, etc)

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 07:37:58 No.2731830 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2731843

Anyone know tricks for faking a hdmi input?

I have a SCART upscaler, but it only outputs to the TV via HDMI if it sees a HDMI input too.
With no HDMI input, it doesn't activate any output, regardless of SCART input.
Hoping it doesn't completely rely on the external HDMI input passing through to give the TV a scart input.

Confirmed it's not my TV as there is an audio jack output on the upscaler, and that won't even output unless there is a HDMI input.

Got a majority refund based on this as I need to be able to use it when I don't have a HDMI device to input into the upscaler but connect my SNES / N64 etc. to a DVI monitor.

Tried linking the +5V line on the scart (Pin 16) to +5V line on HDMI (Pin 18) but this didn't do anything.

Can you use some of the Scart input lines bridged to the HDMI input to maake it think it is receivng a signal?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 07:56:15 No.2731843 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2731876

>>2731830
No not enough information. We have no way of knowing what causes your device to output via HDMI and no way to find out because you've provided no information.
If you're going to tie 5v to something you'd probably want to tie it to hot plug detect.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO WP_20151011_13_25_29_Pro.jpg, 2MiB, 3264x1840

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 08:30:23 No.2731876 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2732387 >>2733918

>>2731843
I've come here and asked because I don't know much at all about video technologies beyond composite and RGB.
I have provided the useful information I can think of off the top of my head.

You could have at least advised on a comprehensive list of useful information required that I can go and gather and how I would go about it so we can progress.

Have tried +5V to the hotplug, but again there was nothing.
There can only be a limited number of pins used to get a device to read that it's got some form of input and activate.

I'll tell you that it's one of these Chinese cheap HDMI upscalers, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1080P-SCART-to-HDMI-Upscaler-Converter-Monitor-HDTV-Wii-Sky-XBox-PS3-STB-TV-DVD-/331657842886?hash=item4d385910c6
Someone will tell me to fuck off and get a decent upscaler, and I will tell them that it's not for the speed or qualty, just reitterate it's so I can use SCART on a DVI mnitor.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20151011_202751.jpg, 2MiB, 3264x1836

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 14:38:10 No.2732387 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2731876
I have the exact same adapter, and it works without something pluged in "hdmi input". Even tried with a DVI cable with an HDMI-DVI adapter.

You just got a defective unit I guess

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 18:21:07 No.2732870 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2731813
Oh I see. It's like computer ram. Bad ram chip you swap ports to find if the ports bad or the chip is. Gotcha.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 18:24:39 No.2732874 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2726743
Try unplugging and plugging the CD board back in. Also pull the CD spinner up a little bit

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 21:15:13 No.2733163 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2733185 >>2734090 >>2764413

>>2729835
Not him but do u know a way to fix horizontal lines?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Oct 2015 21:29:51 No.2733185 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2733461 >>2734090 >>2764413

>>2733163
Your LCD panel is most likely fucked.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 00:25:37 No.2733461 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764413

>>2733185
Well, shit.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 08:19:29 No.2733918 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2731876
>HDMI has a limited number of pins
genius

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 11:08:52 No.2734090 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2734940 >>2764413

>>2733163
>>2733185
The ribbon cable for horizontal is made of paper and graphite.
It's hidden under the panel on the right side.
If it's possible to find a suitable replacement then it just needs some serious and epic solder skills to master this.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20151012_170105-1.jpg, 3MiB, 1737x2878

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 18:22:44 No.2734656 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2734940 >>2734974

Got a sports edition Dreamcast discovered pic related part came off the power board after hearing a rattling noise. Should I be worried? The console plays fine from what I've tested.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 21:12:28 No.2734940 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2734950 >>2735057 >>2764413

>>2734090
Yeah, it's fucked for like 99% of people.

Just would be easier to get a junk game boy and try and salvage the front LCD and board from it.

>>2734656
A missing cap is NEVER a good sign even if the console works.

I'd find a replacement ASAP.

A clear picture would be nice but it says 16v. I can't really make out the number under it. That's the capacitors rating.

You're going to need some soldering skills to replace it

Does it look like it came out of the slot there marked C53?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 21:20:54 No.2734950 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2735057

>>2734940
it looks like 330uF from the pic. Could be OK could be bad, depends where it is in the power section, looks like it's the output smoothing cap for the 12V rail considering the size, position, and 16V rating. Might function ok, the problem is when something spurious happens on the rail, without the cap it might take out some other components.

Should be able to solder it or find someone to solder it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 21:23:45 No.2734958 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2696040
Good job man, was about to tell you to look up the data sheet, or just hook it up with jumpers such that you could easily remap the buttons while playing a game with a known controller config.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 21:35:59 No.2734974 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2735057

>>2734656
Re solder it. However make sure you solder it back in the correct polarity (it seems to me that the negative leg goes into the left side - it is marked on the board, just check the other caps). If you put it in backwards, bad things will happen, possibly explosive ones.

What that capacitor does is dampen any frequency ripples and generally act as an electric buffer. The machine will work without it to a degree, but it may be less stable, hence "to a degree" - it might stay rock stable, it might crash or overheat twice as easily.

If you replace it, make sure you keep the exact same uF rating, and that the voltage is AT LEAST as high as the cap you replace. You shouldn't use lower voltage caps. Higher voltage will work equally fine, but is more expensive, so a waste of money (you won't feel like that if you buy 1 cap, but once you buy them in the dozens...).

The thing I'd most be concerned with, is whether the solder pads on the bottom are still intact, or if they got broken off the PCB. A through-hole cap shouldn't just fall off like that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 22:27:30 No.2735057 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2735059

>>2734974
>>2734940
>>2734950
Thanks for the replies. The capacitor did come from the C53 port, and the capacitor is a 16v 330uf. Luckily my roommate is good with soldering so I might just ask him to have a go at it. If shit hits the fan I can just replace the entire power supply right?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 22:28:42 No.2735059 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2735057
Yes, but you'll need to replace it with the same style. I know there might be a few versions of it.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 41i4ZJ3LHgL.jpg, 17KiB, 500x500

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 22:13:21 No.2736993 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2737078 >>2747278

I order one of these OriginalXbox-to-USBport adapters online two weeks ago and it finally arrived in the mail today.

The first thing I did was plug it in and then plugged a Playstation-to-USB adapter onto it and plugged in my Dualshock2 controller. The Playstation adapter lights up and the Dualshock2 lights up when you press the Analog button, but it doesn't work on the XBMC dashboard and doesn't work in the NES emulator either.

Any ideas on what I have to do to make it work? I know the cable itself functions, I plugged in a USB flashdrive into it and XBMC detected it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 23:14:25 No.2737078 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2737091

>>2736993
All that cable does is make a USB drive show up as a memory card.

It doesn't convert any signals.

I really hope you didn't but it with the intention of playing with a PS2 controller.

The main thing they're used for is soft modding xboxes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 23:20:12 No.2737091 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2737078

One of the reviews on the product said that they used it to play their Genesis and Saturn controllers with it, using another USB adapter for them as well.

Here's the exact product I purchased
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SMCJB4Y

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 15:51:09 No.2738073 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2755248

ps dual shock controller issue, d pad and left shoulder buttons have gone dead, left stick still functions ,right side functions intact,
what actions could I take to repair?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20151015_012226.jpg, 2MiB, 3264x1836

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 19:33:12 No.2738435 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2738450 >>2738975 >>2738984

So being the fucking dunce I am I just fried my PSOne by feeding it 9 V (merely weeks after I finally modchiped the fucker). I figured if it was OK with 8.5 (PS2 PSU) 9 wouldn't hurt... I was wrong...

Sorry for the extreme potato quality photo.
Damage seems very localized though, and I was thinking maybe it would be possible to repair? From what I can see it's only these two SMD components? Then again what you don't see can always be much worse, can't it?

The motor of the CD unit smells kind of strange too though, and I'm wondering if it's possible that that's fried too. In which case just getting a new mobo is out of the question.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 19:43:55 No.2738450 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2738462

>>2738435
So for your extreme potato quality brain

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 19:52:00 No.2738462 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2738470

>>2738450
Yeah. I guess the lesson is don't fuck around with this shit while drunk. Also I've gotten too used to 7805-equipped units like the Famicom, Super Famicom and PC Engine. Those fuckers don't really care what you put in them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 19:56:23 No.2738470 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2738472

>>2738462
>units like the Famicom, Super Famicom and PC Engine. Those fuckers don't really care what you put in

You are an unbelievably dumbass.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 20:01:08 No.2738472 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2738876

>>2738470
Well to an extent you don't overheat the regulator of course (and you shouldn't fuck up the polarity). But I've put in from 6 V to like 10 V in ye old SFC and PC Engine and they work fine. I think 9 is canonical for those though?

But enough of calling me a dumbass, I'm already aware of this fact, and more helping me analyze the situation here. Is it likely that the CD unit was fried too?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2015 01:53:14 No.2738876 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2738946

>>2738472
>Is it likely that the CD unit was fried too?
Who knows. Replace the obviously damaged components and try again.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2015 03:02:27 No.2738946 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2738951 >>2738984

>>2738876
What are they though? Fuses? Resistors? Anybody here who happens to know PSOne schematics?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2015 03:10:44 No.2738951 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2738946
Next time just use the power supply it was designed for you fucking moron.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2015 03:48:47 No.2738975 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2738987 >>2741510

>>2738435
It's was a diode, Google psone d004.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2015 04:07:04 No.2738984 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2738987

>>2738946
>>2738435
I just realized I've somehow made the board short. With a continuity tester all three pins on the DC jack are continous with ground... just what the fuck did I pull off yesterday?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2015 04:19:51 No.2738987 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2738984
>>2738975
After some googling it seems like I might've reversed the polarity, since that's what other people with blown D004's seem to have done.

I wish I had another PS1/PSOne lying around to try the disk assembly in... It certainly smells suspicious.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2015 04:36:49 No.2738998 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2719245
Sorry I can't help, but just wanted to say that I had this same problem. Killed the X button on my favorite PSOne controller. The adapter worked fine for a long time before it happened.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2015 05:21:09 No.2739040 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2719245
You can buy a PS4 controller and use it out of the box on PC.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 01:57:25 No.2740642 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2740673

>>2688179
I'm trying to restore an old SNES, but I need to take out those goddamn screws it has.

And I don't know how to improvise a screwdriver for these. Or how such screwdriver would be called.

Kya !kDashing02

Kya !kDashing02 Fri 16 Oct 2015 02:34:44 No.2740673 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2740642
What you're looking for are gamebits, like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6

You can get them from other places, these just happen to be the pair I use.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO C360_2015-10-16-19-36-31.jpg, 191KiB, 1280x720

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 14:22:39 No.2741510 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2743583

Hi! Guy who fried his PSOne here, some 12 V Zener Diode shopping later. The PSOne seems to be working fine now. This post >>2738975 got me in the right direction, thanks.

I've also learned a lesson to be more careful what PSUs you plug into equipment. Especially when it comes to late 90s CMOS equipment that is anal about voltage and even current.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 17:30:13 No.2741824 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2742069 >>2744081

>>2688179

Okay so Im hooking up my SNES and Gamecube with composite cables (RYW) and I'm looking to buy a tv (need to get HD for convenience, can't go with CRT) and I notice pretty much all the units available have component inputs (RBG). I'm wondering will I be able to connect? I can really go with any model, probably gonna go with a samsung, insignia, dynex for around 200. Do I need an adaptor of some kind? Thanks in advance

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 20:42:37 No.2742069 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2742072

>>2741824
Just get a GC component inputs (RBG) cable. kek

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 20:45:52 No.2742072 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2742395 >>2743596

>>2742069

does anyone besides bait want to help me out?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 00:28:20 No.2742395 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2742072
OK. Sorry. I was just having a laugh. Just make sure your new TV has composite (RYW) and use that. You might be able to squeeze something better out of the setup but that' ll do.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 14:16:26 No.2743403 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2743972

I have a Mega CD with a typical blown fuse issue. I never got around to fixing it, but around the time it blew, I found a video on Youtube with someone who doesn't just replace the fuse, they wire it up so you can swap it easy any time it breaks.

Has anyone seen this? I've searched for it again and haven't found it. Most videos are just the standard how to take out a fuse, etc.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 16:10:57 No.2743583 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2744663

>>2741510
How you needed to learn that lesson is behind me. Its obvious.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 16:29:32 No.2743596 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2743614 >>2743819

>>2742072
Do new TVs not have composite? I don't own one, so I don't know. Doing a quick search on eBay, I see that converters do exist, although they seem expensive. I will say that one day I went to look at how my parent's DVD player was hooked up to their TV, and they were using a composite cable through the component ports...I don't know why it worked, but it did.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 16:38:40 No.2743614 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2743596
nowadays composite is usually shared with Y from component

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 19:19:58 No.2743819 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2743596
Never seen one that doesn't but no doubt someone will eventually make one without it to save a few bucks.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 20:28:49 No.2743972 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752957

>>2743403
Was it an inline fuse holder?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 17 Oct 2015 21:58:37 No.2744081 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2741824
Component isn't RGB, it's YUV. RGB isn't encoded, while YUV is.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Oct 2015 07:10:47 No.2744663 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2743583
We all have bad days.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Oct 2015 13:10:53 No.2744947 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2744990

>>2688179
Guys I know this "non-retro issue" problems these threads have been dealing with, and this is probably the least retro issue posted on these threads, and I apologize in advance but really, there's no other place to ask in the whole 4chan.

So, my Wii U Gamepad left analog stick has become faulty (it suddenly moves wherever the hell it wants), I have several busted controllers from other consoles for spare parts, soldering is not a problem. But I really don't want to open this thing yet unless I am 100% certain I have the correct replacement part.

So the question is, can I use a PS3, Xbox 360 or Wii U Pro analog joystick module to replace the one on the Wii U Gamepad?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Oct 2015 13:36:15 No.2744990 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2744947
PS3 uses a smaller size analogue stick, I know for sure that Wii U pro is identical. I believe 360 is the same as you can swap the thumb stick caps between the two.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Oct 2015 15:38:48 No.2745186 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2688179
please stop posting this picture without the white dot in mario's pupils, thank you

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Oct 2015 17:26:21 No.2745340 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Here's a niche repair log.

http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/58578/

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Oct 2015 18:03:18 No.2745410 Report Delete

Quoted By:

I'm finding myself playing more NES games in marathon fashion, and after one instance in Life Force I'm finding a worry for secure contact connections. Is it worth it to buy a top loader for this? From what I've seen they only do RF output, is it easy to mod them to do other things, like composite or even component?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 03:52:53 No.2746153 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752187

So, my PS2 is officially not reading some of my PS1 discs, so I need to replace the laser. I'm wondering if there's a recommended laser to get because I know at least some PS2 lasers have calibration problems and hit the disc?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 18:15:32 No.2747278 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2736993
So let me get this straight... Because basic serial devices work with it, you think an encoded device like a PS2 controller would work?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 18:26:21 No.2747292 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2747301 >>2747593

Any tips to a guy who has never soldered before who is about to change out the caps on an original NES? Trying to fix the dreaded "wavy line" video out put after trying everything else.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 18:30:26 No.2747301 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2747292
Don't go directly into replacing the caps, find a cheap or broken electronic and practice removing and resoldering things on that first.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 19:00:52 No.2747365 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2747447

On paper, it looks easy, and I've done reading on the subject, but I am having a hard time figuring out what are the pitfalls- how do you know when you've made a mistake?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 19:53:40 No.2747447 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2747365
>how do you know when you've made a mistake?
If you ask yourself "have I practiced how to do this several times?" and the answer is "no" then it would be a very serious mistake to proceed.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 20:12:19 No.2747476 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2747775

Right. I will take your advice and practice on a junk board. Taking the solder off with braid seems easy. I'm worried about, once I stick the caps wires through the holes and attempt to dab solder on them...if I get too much or too little, if any gets on the green board- if that is going to ruin the whole thing...?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO shit.jpg, 246KiB, 1600x1200

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 21:47:32 No.2747593 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2747664 >>2747719

>>2747292
Are you using the proper power supply? If you're using pic related, it will fuck up your output because of interference. You might be able to fix it with a ferrite ring, but you'd probably be better off getting a proper AC adapter.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 22:20:44 No.2747629 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2747641

Does anyone have any experience with replacing dead save batteries in Game Boy games? Am I better off buying a regular CR2025 battery at a store and taping it in (as in this video https://youtu.be/RsROHA7RUCQ), or is it worth buying the batteries on ebay with soldering prongs on them already?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 22:25:28 No.2747641 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2747629
Buy it at the store and tape it in.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 22:36:10 No.2747664 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2747593
>supply continuous power
>easy to use
Thanks China, very considerate of you to cover all the bases.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 23:15:20 No.2747719 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2748394

>>2747593
Tried different power supplies. Is there ever a reason to believe that the original power supply could go bad, because that is what I started with.

What exactly does the ferrite ring do- shielding?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 19 Oct 2015 23:50:07 No.2747775 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2747476
>if any gets on the green board- if that is going to ruin the whole thing...?
The green coating is meant to prevent solder from sticking anywhere it's not supposed to. As long as you aren't using too much, it'll stay where you put it. If it's getting too hot, take a break and let it cool down.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 06:45:04 No.2748392 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2748395 >>2748401

Some guy is selling a copy of alien soldier for the mega drive (european version).
How can i know if that is not a repro?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 06:57:37 No.2748394 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2747719
Its supposed to help out with interference from the power cord, though I haven't actually tested it myself. If you're using an AC adapter outputting 9v 1.3A and you're still getting interference, I guess its not the power cord. Just wanted to throw that out there since a lot of resellers package garbage cords.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 06:58:15 No.2748395 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2748404

>>2748392
Ask him. If he says yes, believe him. If he says no, call him a liar and walk away.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 07:06:21 No.2748401 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2748404

>>2748392
Check that the label fits right and doesn't look like something that was printed and stuck on.

If you're really paranoid, open it up and check the board to see if it looks like a hand soldering job.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_201510293_121002.jpg, 225KiB, 480x665

Anonymous Tue 20 Oct 2015 07:14:40 No.2748404 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2748395
>>2748401
It looks fine, i think.
And he was extremly cautious about the payment and shipping (he called me 4 different times to make sure about the way i wanted to pay, what shipping i wanted, if my address was correct and to call him back when it arrives)

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 03:58:58 No.2750087 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750089 >>2750112 >>2750320 >>2751860 >>2751898

So, I'm looking to knock out the NES CIC chip with the two wire mod. Thing is, I don't have the revision they have on the few sites that show the points to solder to.

Would anyone have any high resolution of each NES board revision? Bonus if you provide the two wires you need to connect to knock out the CIC chip

Thanks.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 2 Wire mod.jpg, 831KiB, 1504x2005

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 04:00:40 No.2750089 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2751860 >>2751898

>>2750087
The mod I'm talking about FYI

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 04:17:15 No.2750112 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750117

>>2750087
Is the chip damaged?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 04:21:03 No.2750117 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750119

>>2750112
No?

I want to knock it out so I don't have to deal with the flashing screen. This is a better solution in my book then ripping a leg off.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 04:25:26 No.2750119 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750125

>>2750117
The flashing screens are not the problem of the lockout chip. Do you remove your car doors because one of the windows is stuck?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 04:27:15 No.2750125 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750132

>>2750119
Not this shit again.

Listen, I can clean and clean the games and clean some more. Some just flat refuse to work with the CIC chip on the first boot.

So if you don't have anything valuable to add to this conversation, I ask you to stop.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 04:31:23 No.2750132 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750159

>>2750125
I don't care what you do, I'm just trying to tell you that removing the thing that tells you your shit is fucked up is stupid.

I take it you disconnected your check engine light, too?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 04:55:40 No.2750159 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750186

>>2750132
Not the previous poster, but that's a terrible analogy here. Disabling the CIC chip on a NES has absolutely no drawbacks as far as I know. This isn't a fuse, this isn't a critical part of the system even. Nothing will blow up, nothing will act differently (except you can boot more games, more reliably), absolutely nothing of value will be lost either.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 05:11:39 No.2750186 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750242

>>2750159
>Disabling the CIC chip on a NES has absolutely no drawbacks as far as I know

Gameplay interruption and save game corruption are the two big ones. If it's not reading the game well enough to allow play, there's a chance it'll fuck it up.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 05:46:47 No.2750227 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750230 >>2750256

Oh a repair-related thread, that's cool.
I checked the wiki but didn't find info in the DS section much so I guess I'll post here.

I have a black DSi where the right shoulder button doesn't work anymore. I don't know what has happened to it. I think maybe some juice spilled under it. It doesn't feel sticky, maybe a bit hard to press. The way it works is it doesn't work unless you press REALLY hard at maybe at a certain angle. Basically makes playing anything that uses the R-button not an option.

Any quick&dirty tips on how to fix it, or would I need to open the thing up and mess with the insides? Everything else about the console works fine, not that I play with it much anymore anyway.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 05:50:21 No.2750230 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750256 >>2750321

>>2750227
>The way it works is it doesn't work unless you press REALLY hard at maybe at a certain angle. Basically makes playing anything that uses the R-button not an option.

The microswitch is shot and needs to be replaced.
The upside is that it's a simple ribbon cable swap out, and replacements are pretty cheap.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 06:07:28 No.2750242 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750250

>>2750186
>Gameplay interruption and save game corruption are the two big ones.
my nes CIC chip has been disabled way back in 90's and it never caused any problems, and even nowadays it works perfectly.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 06:14:35 No.2750250 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750258

>>2750242
>I don't personally have a problem so it's literally impossible!

Sure, whatever, I don't even care.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 06:20:02 No.2750256 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750321

>>2750227
>>2750230
same thing happened to my 3DS once, replacing the microswitches did it.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1395350742930.jpg, 21KiB, 416x439

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 06:23:11 No.2750258 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750263

>>2750250
why did you even bother to reply then? Do you even have any proof that it can cause problems?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 06:27:38 No.2750263 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750265

>>2750258
Because it's common knowledge that shitty contact causes screen flashing, and shitty contact can freeze your game and corrupt save data.

If you deny any of these, you're top-speed retard.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 06:30:46 No.2750265 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750268

>>2750263
thats completely unrelated to disabling CIC chip though

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 06:33:34 No.2750268 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750312

>>2750265
>I'm going to disable this to stop the screen flashing!

>not related to screen flashing and other symptoms of bad contact

Of course, anything to keep your simple mind secure.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 31l1a1BFFkL._SY300_.jpg, 6KiB, 300x300

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 06:37:51 No.2750273 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750278 >>2750698

If I used this one a console, and connect the VGA to a beamer. Would I get an image?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 06:42:40 No.2750278 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750454

>>2750273
no

also what console has a female scart output stock?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1377954703177.jpg, 18KiB, 300x300

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 07:19:13 No.2750312 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750320

>>2750268
Then tell me what are downsides of disabling CIC when there are no problems with the contacts(cart and the 72-pin connector itself)? I never mentioned contacts or flashing in the first place because its not issue for me(I can clean my games), is that so fucking hard to understand?

Reason why I disabled it in the first place was to be able to play PAL-A, NTSC+famicom games(latter via adapter) at silky smooth 50hz. If I dont game boots but nes keeps resetting(aka flashing screen), which is most commonly fixed by disabling the CIC chip, there are adapters for it but all they do is disable the CIC chip other ways anyway.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 07:33:37 No.2750320 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2750312
>Reason why I disabled it in the first place was to be able to play PAL-A, NTSC+famicom games

Wow, it's amazing what a reason behind doing something does!

The reason I say this when people come on here wanting to disable the lockout chip is because almost every single one has the misguided opinion that it is the end-all fix for any game reading issue the system has. If you'd mentioned playing games from other regions here>>2750087, I wouldn't have mentioned it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 07:33:50 No.2750321 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750323 >>2751939

>>2750230
>>2750256
Microswitches, right. I'll google that and see what I come up with. Thanks for the quick response.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 07:38:08 No.2750323 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2750321
Look for "DSi shoulder button replacement."

Try getting official parts if you can, new if possible, and replace both.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Scart coupler (female to female).jpg, 11KiB, 300x300

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 09:59:59 No.2750454 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750703 >>2750719

>>2750278
None, I know, but if I put a SCART connector between them wouldn't it work?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 13:01:10 No.2750698 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2750273
Only on some projectors specifically designed to work with SCART over DE-15. They're not that common, check its documentation. My older projector (Sanyo Z5) does that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 13:03:11 No.2750703 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750719 >>2750824

>>2750454
Yes (but only if the projector can accept SCART RGB on DE15 to begin with).

The SCART/VGA connector you see here was meant to be used with VHS player (or LD players), which had a female SCART connector already.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 13:10:15 No.2750719 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2750824 >>2750875 >>2751498

>>2750454
>>2750703
most projectors don't accept 15 kHz RGB what I know of.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 13:38:11 No.2750785 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2751619

>>2715523
I was always under the impression a SNES would yellow if kept in sunlight. What if one used Retrobrite on a yellowing console and then kept it stored in a dark area?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 13:58:13 No.2750824 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2750719
>>2750703
I've seen one with a VGA input which underneath says scart, that's why I'm asking.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 14:22:26 No.2750875 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2750719
Haven't had any issues with a SNES on my Sanyo Z5 in RGB, but it's been a while. I should have checked if it was outputting 240p or 480i, but didn't care at the time (it just worked, I didn't think much ot it).
As usual, getting the device's documentation is key. Projector manuals have a shit ton information on the supported video modes, spanning sometime 5 pages.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 19:39:24 No.2751498 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2750719
My experience as well. Many support 15khz on component which 15hkz RGB can be converted to easily, cheaply, and without lag. That's probably anyones best bet unless they already have a display that handles RGB

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 21:00:58 No.2751619 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2750785
It would still happen, just much slower. It's the oxidization of the fire retardant they used in the plastic.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 22:33:46 No.2751860 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2751869 >>2751898

>>2750089
>>2750087
So no one has any more information on this mod?

No one can just shut the fuck up and stop bickering about the functions of the CIC chip?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 22:37:54 No.2751869 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2751872

>>2751860
>No one can just shut the fuck up and stop bickering about the functions of the CIC chip?

Why the fuck should I give you any information when you're acting like a child about this?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 22:38:52 No.2751872 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2751884

>>2751869
How am I acting like a child? I wasn't the one you argued with at all.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 22:47:16 No.2751884 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2751898

>>2751872
>guy gives no information on why its being disabled.
>common misconceptions on this very thread series is that disabling this means your system will magically work forever without cleaning
>explain this and why it shouldn't be disabled
>guy whines on, only informing why several posts on
>other guy immediately accepts the reason, because it's actually a reason
>you come in and tell people to shut the fuck up and stop bitching
Sure thing, let's just stop telling people correct information when they say they're going to do something, because you don't like it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 22:52:26 No.2751891 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2751904 >>2751905

General cleaning aside, is there anything I should be doing to my retro consoles to preserve the life in them, or make them "better than new"? I'm looking mostly for simple mods for consoles. I once read that you could replace the capacitors in a SNES to get better sound quality. Are there any small tweaks that you do when buying a new console from a thrift shop?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 22:57:31 No.2751898 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2751987

>>2751884
Excuse me?

I made these post. Any other and you're arguing with another anon.
>>2750087
>>2750089
>>2751860

I just want my CIC chip disabled without ripping the leg off the chip Is that so hard to understand? I know it's not a fix all, but I've cleaned my NES, I've cleaned my games, and I've done everything possible to get games working on it and some games just flat out refuse to work on the first boot. The CIC chip is flawed technology. Why do you think they released a top loader without it? Because it just does not work well in the front loader NES.

I for one would love to keep my NES all "orgional" but like I said, the technology is flawed, un-needed, and down right intrusive to keep in a NES.

So, if you really don't have anything to add to help with this simple mod, I'll be ending it here.

Maybe I can get some help from some other people who don't have their head so far up their ass they're looking at their tonsils.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 22:59:39 No.2751904 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2751891
submerge all cartridge-based systems in an aquarium filled with mineral oil to prevent overheating and humidity-based damage permanently

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 23:00:20 No.2751905 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2751891
Replacing the caps in a SNES is going to be semi-hard due to most of them being surfaced mounted.

There are some though hole capacitors that you could replace though easily.

Just don't go trying to re-cap a SEGA Genesis. They're a real nightmare of capacitors. I think I counted around 40 when I tried doing one.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 23:15:21 No.2751939 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2750321
You're going to need ones that are OFF-MOM

just means off-momentary.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Oct 2015 23:25:17 No.2751987 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2751898
>Excuse me?
>I made these post. Any other and you're arguing with another anon.

The weird thing about anonymity is that if someone else answers something I asked you, I don't know it's not you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:42:26 No.2752163 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752165 >>2752669

I have a copy of Parasite eve for the playstation and I'm getting black screens at a specific point on the second disc. Is this likely a glitch or the cd itself? When it came to switch the discs it didn't register that I had the disc in, but after I wiped it with a cloth it worked. The disc itself has a about 12 small scratches in a certain area and lots of extremely fine scratches everywhere else. I have no access to a disc resurfacer so should toothpaste suffice?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:44:55 No.2752165 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752174

>>2752163
If you have a pawn shop near you, you most likely have access to a disk resurfacing machine. They charge anything from $1-3 per disk usually.

As for the tooth paste trick, its iffy. What are you playing it on? PS1? PS1 small, PS2, or PS2 slim?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:47:46 No.2752174 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752181

>>2752165
fat ps2.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:50:45 No.2752181 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2752174
It's most likely the disk having a few scratches.

That or the fact that fat PS2s are starting to die out. They have two adjustments on their laser units. One for DVD and one for CD. It's most likely the disk though.

Before smearing anything on it, I'd clean it with a microfiber cloth from center out (not in a circle pattern) with some 70% alcohol

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:52:13 No.2752187 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752192

>>2746153

Anybody have an answer?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:54:24 No.2752192 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752196

>>2752187
You're going to have to provide us with more information anon.

Model of PS2? Should be on the back starting with SCPH

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 00:57:28 No.2752196 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752202

>>2752192

75001...Slim. I'll be here all night if you need anymore info.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 01:01:32 No.2752202 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752216

>>2752196
http://store.richspsxparts.com/slps2direerl.html

http://store.richspsxparts.com/pl270sev12la.html

I've bough from them before on E-bay and they're pretty good with shipping and parts.

Can't say for the quality of the replacements (didn't order a new laser)

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 01:09:31 No.2752216 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752217

>>2752202

Okay, so I see a lot of really cheap ones on eBay...Are they all the brands listed in that link, or are they third party?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 01:10:34 No.2752217 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752223

>>2752216
There's only 3 types from what I can tell.

That's generally the case with laser units. 2-3 manufactures make them for one console.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 01:12:44 No.2752223 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752312

>>2752217

Okay...Thanks...That answers all of my questions, I think. Thank you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 02:13:36 No.2752312 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2752223
No problem. I'd like to think this place is full of semi useful people that don't bitch the first chance they get.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 08:32:47 No.2752605 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752797

Does anyone know what crystal oscillator I should buy for a Sega Genesis model 1 10mhz overclock?

I use digikey for almost all of my electronic parts purchases. I am pretty good at knowing reputable brands for things like capacitors and resistors. But I have no idea what to look for in a crystal oscillator.

I'd rather not buy a random no name off of digikey. I'd appreciate it if someone could give me a suggestion or link/part number to one I could buy.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 09:47:20 No.2752669 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2752163
Don't use fucking tooth paste on a copy of Parasite Eve. Just go to any store that deals in used CDs and get it resurfaced.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 11:38:12 No.2752797 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2752823

>>2752605
>reputable brands for things like capacitors and resistors
huhwut?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 12:05:11 No.2752823 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2753360

>>2752797
For caps, some brands are indeed known to be higher quality - last longer, are closer to the given ratings, etc. From the top of my head, I think, Nichicon, Rubycon, and Nippon Chemi-Con are good brands. But there are many others, you should do some research.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 13:45:56 No.2752957 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2743972
YES!

That's exactly what it was. Thanks. Still couldn't find the video but I can manage now, knowing what I have to do.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 18:23:24 No.2753360 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2753595

>>2752823
So this is the "recap will fix it" version of the "taiyo yuden burn at lowest speed" maymay? You kids never cease to amaze.
>From the top of the google search I just did
kek

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 20:36:08 No.2753595 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2753732

>>2753360
>higher quality brands don't exist!

Sure thing, babby.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20151022_213639.jpg, 521KiB, 2240x1344

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 21:53:22 No.2753721 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2753723 >>2753742

Behold! The bottom screen of my Nintendo DSi XL. Can anyone give it a proper diagnosis?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 21:54:58 No.2753723 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2753721
The problem in question is the blotch of light on the top left btw.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 22:02:41 No.2753732 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2753735 >>2753742 >>2753778 >>2754348

>>2753595
>higher quality brands don't exist!
In this market segment pretty much. Those components have been commoditized for decades. Same with TTL. You're just buying into what some jewbay seller wants you to believe. inb4 your kidgooglefu learns you bout mil spec shit.

>babby
Normally I wouldn't take the piss out of a kid for a simple typo but in your case it's so ironic I can help myself.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 22:05:54 No.2753735 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2753835

>>2753732
You're a stupid cunt.

Just letting you know.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 22:12:35 No.2753742 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2753746 >>2753835

>>2753732
>Normally I wouldn't take the piss out of a kid for a simple typo but in your case it's so ironic I can help myself.

Are you new?

>>2753721
You're the last non-retro question I'm answering this week, congratulations.

It just looks like bleedthrough from the backlight. It should be fine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 22:16:54 No.2753746 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2753757

>>2753742
Is there a way to get rid of it? It's really distracting.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 22:28:03 No.2753757 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2754250

>>2753746
You can see if the material used to block bleedthrough has come loose in that spot. You'll have to disassemble it to get there.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 22:54:03 No.2753778 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2753732
>Those components have been commoditized for decades.
8/10

>babby
>"typo" rage
2.5/10

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 23:32:02 No.2753835 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2753847

>>2753735
u mad babby?

>>2753742
Nope, oldfag. U?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Somehow I don't believe (...).png, 249KiB, 506x407

Anonymous Thu 22 Oct 2015 23:36:33 No.2753847 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2754280

>>2753835
>Nope, oldfag. U?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 23 Oct 2015 03:29:54 No.2754250 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2754309

>>2753757
Is there some sort of guide that could help me?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 23 Oct 2015 04:00:15 No.2754280 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2754309

>>2753847
So samefag then?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 23 Oct 2015 04:29:18 No.2754309 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2754280
More of a "here every thread helping who I can"fag.
I was here in the repair threads when they started, I'll be here until they end. Anything more than that isn't relevant.

>>2754250
This will get inside it and to the part you're looking for. Just take a good look at the screen assembly for any loose seals or whatever in that corner. I've only been in a standard DSi, so I can't give you any insight on how the touchscreen assembly is put together.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+DSi+XL+Touchscreen+Replacement/3274

You should be able to get by using a small flat screwdriver instead of a spudger if you're gentle, and there will be some loud pops or cracking sounds as you pull it apart because of how it clips together, but going slow should prevent anything from breaking.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 23 Oct 2015 05:19:58 No.2754348 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2754375

>>2753732
> he never heard of chinese leakings caps in millions of mobos

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 23 Oct 2015 05:56:31 No.2754375 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2754392

>>2754348
>le epic chinese maymay
>posted from my made in china iphone

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 23 Oct 2015 06:09:27 No.2754392 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2754375
>yep, he really hasn't

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 23 Oct 2015 14:27:29 No.2754923 Report Delete

Quoted By:

Have a strange problem with my PCE CD. I have a legit game which freezes at certain points, tried burning a copy and the same thing happens. Does anyone know what is causing this?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 23 Oct 2015 17:29:35 No.2755248 Report Delete

Quoted By:

its a ps2 controller mentioned in
>>2738073
any clues as to what this could be please?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 01:32:18 No.2756041 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2756113

I have a PSP that I use for emulators and shit and I wanna play it on my TV.

Its a Metal Gear Peacewalker PSP-3000. I have component cables for it, I can get its menu onto the TV screen but as soon as I boot up anything the connection drops and it goes back to the PSP. This is including UMD, and emulators.

Any ideas?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 24 Oct 2015 03:11:52 No.2756113 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2758546

>>2756041
Have you tried it with an OFW? It could be an issue with whatever CFW you're running

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 02:37:12 No.2758534 Report Delete

Quoted By:

does anyone have a remedy for wavy lines over S-Video on a model 2 saturn (round buttons)?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 02:48:58 No.2758546 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2756113
I think its the shitty 3.00 shipped Chinese Cable I have.

I updated to latest firmware and nothing. I have an official sony cable coming, 10x the fucking price shipped, but it should actually fucking work.

My psp was barely recognizing the chinese cable.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 06:31:12 No.2758737 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2758792 >>2759721 >>2760924

In the last two years I played a lot of emulated NES games on my pc and now I consider to buy some of theme on cartridge, but I am from Germany and don't own an old tv and wanted to clear some myths:

A NTSC Version looks and feels better than the PAL counterpart - due to higher frame rate and no black stripes; but even if you own a NTSC NES you can't play with it properly on a 60 Hertz CRT TV in Europe (Germany).
If you want to play NTSC games in the PAL region you have to play on a "newer" TV. But if you play it on a digital TV it would look better to play it on an emulator.

So the best way to play old NES games would be:

1. To play NTSC Games on an old CRT TV (Console)
2. To play NTSC Games an a digital TV (Emu)
3. To play NTSC Games on a digital TV (Conslole)
4. To play NTSC Games on a digital TV (Multinorm)

Please help me clear this out and keep in mind I have next to nothing experience with old consoles (my first console was an N64).
The first time I experienced the PAL differences was playing Crash Bandicoot in two version over the ps3 and I don't want to ever play an inferior version again.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 07:10:33 No.2758792 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2758823 >>2759216

>>2758737
The best and easiest way is to play games from your region. Since they will be compatible with your power outlet, and TV's.

Otherwise you need an adapter, then an American TV, and all this other shit.

You people always overthink too much, just get your own stuff. PAL stuff is generally way less expensive then NTSC. The "pal is worse" is more of a meme then anything.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 07:46:44 No.2758823 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2758830

>>2758792
>then an American TV,
No SCART RGB, disgusting

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 07:57:13 No.2758830 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2758823
>m-muh superfluous connector!

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 12:05:08 No.2759216 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2759313 >>2759714 >>2766879

>>2758792
>The "pal is worse" is more of a meme then anything.
Yeah, so many games running 10% slower than they are supposed to is perfectly fine.

PAL IS worse, it's not a meme. You guys got fucked back then.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 12:20:50 No.2759259 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2695318
Tell him and get some money back.

But it's not a big deal. Still works right?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 12:55:52 No.2759313 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2759673 >>2759690 >>2759742

>>2759216
"back then"
We got fucked over until 7th gen. SNES era? 50Hz. PSX era? 50Hz. PS2 era? 60Hz for the most part, but for gamecube, progressive scan was actively stripped out from all pal territory games despite a huge amount of the library supporting it.

Also got ganked on the rpg front by virtue of pal.

It wasn't until PS3 etc. that progressive scan and component/hdmi output actually became a mainstream option.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 15:48:20 No.2759673 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2759313
I was actually talking more in regards to the way most lazy devs just slowed the game by 10% and called it a day. That was some half-assed porting.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 15:53:25 No.2759690 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2759313
You forgot the Dreamcast which had PAL60 support on a lot of games, and could do 480p VGA out on almost every game.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 16:00:04 No.2759714 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2759216
Picture quality wise, PAL is better than NTSC.

We only got fucked for videogames because all content was made in NTSC land.

Then again, you guys were limited to RF and at best Composite for ages, S-Video being obscure and almost never used, while we had glorious RGB Scart everywhere.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 16:00:59 No.2759721 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2758737
any decently recent (ie from the mid 90s) euro CRT accepts NTSC composite video either through phono socket or scart, it's even more true with brand tvs like sonys. And a huge number of tv accept a 60hz signal through scart.
you can use an US NES (not the toploader because it's RF only) or a JP AV Famicom. You also need to be careful about power adapter, as those differ with regions. But sometimes you can use one from another console, ie a Megadrive 1 adapter will happily power a famicom.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 16:07:10 No.2759742 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2759761

>>2759313
60Hz support for PlayStation 2 games in PAL territories was abysmal. The GameCube is much better, 29 of the 30 games I have all support 60Hz with Luigi's Mansion being fullscreen 50Hz. For PS2 I stick to NTSC, Xbox I'm fine with PAL as that seemingly forces 60Hz. Dreamcast has fair 60Hz support for PAL stuff but I tend to go NTSC anyway due to game selection.

Prior to 6th gen though? NTSC all the way, fuck PAL.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 16:14:18 No.2759761 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2759742
>60Hz support for PlayStation 2 games in PAL territories was abysmal.
No shit.

FFX and X-2? Slowdown and no fullscreen.

Kingdom Hearts? Slowdown and no fullscreen, in an action RPG.

Devil May Cry? A game focused on FAST-PACED NON-STOP ACTION? Slowdown and no fullscreen.

Same happened in FF9 too if I recall, which got a lot of flack for being slow.

I knew this was bullshit at such a young age I was considering writing a letter to the EU trade officials to highlight an issue that gamers were suffering.

Worst part? A large amount of TVs (especially those with SCART sockets) in Europe were perfectly able to handle 60hz. It wasn't even an option.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 25 Oct 2015 23:28:39 No.2760562 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>ITT former soviet bloc kids bitch about not having multi system TVs like the rest of eurostan.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 26 Oct 2015 07:55:56 No.2760924 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2758737
I'm in Sweden and can only remember owning one TV that couldn't deal with 60 Hz properly, but it would still display. The picture would just be a bit "compressed" vertically with some white lines visible on top. But it ate PAL 60 just fine otherwise. I didn't have anything NTSC at the time, but I guess it wouldn't have worked with that old set based on its odd behaviour with PAL 60. All sets since that set have however been perfectly able to deal with both PAL 50Hz and 60Hz as well as NTSC.

I actually even remember having a set that could deal with PAL color over what I believe to be an NTSC carrier (a.k.a. ultra-wierd PAL60, what my region-modded Saturn seems to be giving me), but it looked like shit. But since trashing that set I no longer have any equipment (modern flat screens can't deal with it what I've noticed) that can deal with the composite signal it puts out (RGB works fine). On PVMs you can force the mode to NTSC and you get black & white picture or you can force the mode to PAL and you get a rolling color picture...

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 26 Oct 2015 08:04:04 No.2760928 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2760931 >>2760963 >>2761369 >>2761372 >>2761417 >>2763016

>tfw PAL fags ruin everything

One of the reason NTSC-J and NTSC-UC games are going up and up is because you faggots keep buying them instead of your local PAL stuff.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 26 Oct 2015 08:08:45 No.2760931 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2761417

>>2760928
SNES PAL games are way more expensive than NTSC counter parts.
Vampire Kiss being the prime exemple

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 26 Oct 2015 08:38:46 No.2760963 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2760928
>being this desperate to find someone to blame for inflated prices
I bet you're going to blame 90s kids next.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 26 Oct 2015 13:45:41 No.2761369 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2760928
>One of the reason NTSC-J and NTSC-UC games are going up and up is because you faggots keep buying them instead of your local PAL stuff.

I'd buy a different region, too, if mine was objectively inferior.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 26 Oct 2015 13:49:22 No.2761372 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2760928
>One of the reason NTSC-J and NTSC-UC games are going up and up is because you faggots keep buying them instead of your local PAL stuff.

Guardian Heroes for Saturn costs an arm and a leg if you want the PAL or USA version, while the Japanese one goes for peanuts.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 26 Oct 2015 14:20:43 No.2761417 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2760928
>>2760931
oh and you don't know about the horrors of "Sealed blister" prices....

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 26 Oct 2015 18:39:55 No.2761867 Report Delete

Quoted By:

I have a Sega CD that usually freezes right when the BIOS load. It'll show the picture of the earth but the music doesn't play and it doesn't go any further. I got it to load normally once but it won't do it again. I've tried cleaning the connection between the Genesis and the CD. Any ideas?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 26 Oct 2015 20:06:21 No.2762049 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2762598

>>2688179
Are GDI's burnable?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 01:28:46 No.2762598 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2762756

>>2762049
Oh boy. Simple answer, Yes but it will take some work. See this thread for details:
http://theisozone.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=4035

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 03:55:32 No.2762756 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2762826 >>2762831 >>2763012

>>2762598
Thanks, I don't really get it. The PAL version of Capcom vs SNK is about 1,10 GB while the NTSC version for some reason is 200 MB

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 04:58:06 No.2762820 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2762838 >>2763007

Will a NTSC Dreamcast (cdi format) burned game work with my PAL console?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 05:01:26 No.2762826 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2762756
GD-ROMs have a max capacity of 1.2 GB's, which will not fit on a standard 80 min/700mb CD-R, so what people do is compress video and audio to fit it on.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 05:05:02 No.2762831 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2762841

>>2762756
It's probably nearly a gigabyte of different language files for all that weird shit people speak there.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 05:12:01 No.2762838 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2762820
you'll need to patch it to work on your PAL system, but it should work, though I don't know if you'll have issues with 50/60 hz shit

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 05:16:03 No.2762841 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2762886

>>2762831
900 MB of language files? Sounds extreme to me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 06:12:15 No.2762886 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2762970

>>2762841
To be fully EU compliant they need all the euro languages as well as those of all the browns and blacks that come there to collect benefits.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 08:21:21 No.2762970 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2762886
BUT 900 MB?!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 08:58:18 No.2763007 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2762820
Yes. No need to patch anything. Burn and enjoy. You'll only need a NTSC-compatible TV.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 09:00:17 No.2763012 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2762756
That's just padding. Much better than none, if properly done (data pushed to the outside edge of the physical disc).

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 09:04:14 No.2763016 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2760928
Save for a few exceptions, game data is just game data. US and Euro discs usually contains the same exact content save for a few bytes in their header (region). There's often no advantage owning the US version of the game when you have the PAL one and a way of booting the game in NTSC mode on your machine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 27 Oct 2015 23:53:34 No.2764236 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764564

I had originally started a thread regarding a sound problem my SNES is having, but was referred to this general repair thread here.

my original thread is >>2763843

Basically, every time I load up a cartridge with the extra pins on the sides (meaning it has an enhancement chip) the screen starts humming and the sound comes out terribly distorted. If I insert a regular cartridge (with no additional tabs, only the center chip) then the sound is perfect with no humming nor distortion. I recently gave the pins in the cartridge slot a quick spraying and wipe down with some DeOxit contact cleaner, but I'm not seeing anything dirty there regardless.

The sound issue is only present in carts with the extra tabs for enhancement chips... That's all I can tell so far. I don't have the tools needed for opening the SNES up for further inspection yet... But does this sound like an issue anyone else has dealt with before?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 02:11:11 No.2764413 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765617

>>2733163
>>2733185
>>2733461
>>2734090
>>2734940

Some Aussie claims he can fix this issue

http://www.extremegbcollection.com/

Kya !kDashing02

Kya !kDashing02 Wed 28 Oct 2015 03:13:02 No.2764467 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764473

Would it be possible for the ROM chip inside a copy of Sonic Spinball(or any other Genesis game) to just die and refuse to load the game?

I have repeatedly cleaned and reseated my copy of Sonic Spinball on multiple consoles with no luck in getting it to load at all.
I've opened it up, and can't really see any broken traces or cracked solder joints; Could it be the single resistor(I believe it's a resistor) that is causing the problem?

I get Spinball is a very cheap game, I'd just like to know why it doesn't work.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 03:24:30 No.2764473 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764467
only way to know for sure would be to dump the ROM and compare it to a known good dump. It's likely that the ROM chip has gone on you though, it happened to my copy of Pokemon Red that I got from a mate for free to try to fix, but couldn't get it to work past Oak's start speech.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 05:39:35 No.2764564 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765329

>>2764236
>(meaning it has an enhancement chip)
It is basically the B Address bus along with other control signals that are useless for simple cartridges that just contain memory.
SuperFX doesn't even use these but has them as most carts rather use their own master clock oscillator, only early Starfox carts are the exception and SA-1 uses only the master clock (pin 1) and WRAM refresh (pin 33).
>the screen starts humming
Really weird.
>the sound comes out terribly distorted
The 2 pins at the right are audio inputs (pin 31 and 62), only used by SGB and SD2SNES.

>But does this sound like an issue anyone else has dealt with before?
For me it sounds like a serious voltage drop of the power supply.
As the hum could be your mains frequency finding it's way though the power supply into the 5V rail (causing video problems) and the ~9V before the 7805 (5V regulator) is very likely lower than 7V preventing the 7805 to work properly and cutting the signal output of the audio opamps (causing distortion of sound).
Cartridges with coprocessors do draw a little more current than simple ones (SuperFX draws about 50mA more), which is a sign that something's rather wrong with the power supply than console.

So what power supply are you using, NTSC or PAL, which games exactly do work fine and which ones doesn't?

>I don't have the tools needed for opening the SNES up for further inspection yet
Right now you're better off connecting the SNES to a lab power supply, if the current at 9-12V is higher than 0.75A then something in the console draws way more current than it should be.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO grapeboy__by_iniko-d54pzm0.png, 499KiB, 500x667

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 10:23:05 No.2764761 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764778 >>2764779

I have 2 NES consoles that have broken/shit cases and need new pin connectors. Probably a little bit of rust on them.

I've held on to them since I was a kid.
I think the rusty one is my original that my grandma ended up keeping in a box on her porch after a hurricane.

ANYWAYS, my question is:

How much could I sell these for?
I'm sick of hoarding them.

Also, is there anything cool I could do with them? like a custom case I can make/buy or something.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 10:43:36 No.2764778 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764843

>>2764761
>I have 2 NES consoles that have broken/shit cases and need new pin connectors. Probably a little bit of rust on them.
>How much could I sell these for?
Broken shells and non-functional? I'd be surprised if anyone would pay more than $15 for one, if that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 10:44:02 No.2764779 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2764843

>>2764761

They sound pretty worthless. NES console is far from being a rarity and ca nbe easily found in decent condition. You wouldn't even get $3 each at a garage sale imo.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 11:35:25 No.2764843 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765342

>>2764778
They are functional. Just pain in the ass to get a game to not "BLINKING LIGHT" because old connectors.

>>2764779
>You wouldn't even get $3 each at a garage sale imo.

Thanks. No way I'd sell working NES's for 3$, but appreciate the replies.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 14:06:48 No.2765069 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765380 >>2767474

Got a Dreamcast VGA, but my tv says "Out of reach" pls help.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO ac_port_snes.jpg, 2MiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 16:48:18 No.2765329 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765442

>>2764564

Thanks for taking the time to give such a detailed reply. I think you may be on to something here... Today it started acting up with every single cartridge (no matter if it had an enhancement chip or extra tabs or not... everything is buzzing when played now)... So I started looking into the power source... I do have an original AC adapter, but apparently the AC adapter port has become broken over time and is missing the ring in the center, leaving just the 2 pins that were apparently holding the ac adapter in place... The console will always turn on fin, but I'm guessing that has something to do with it changing the voltage along the way... I was hoping this would be an easy fix.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 16:49:59 No.2765331 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2688308
Oh!
I've got experience with this stuff. I have an MVS that (thankfully) the previous owner replaced all the microswitches in before I got it...

But I do understand how that stuff works, and helped a friend replace all the buttons and switches when he got his.

Give me a few to type some shit...

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 16:55:36 No.2765342 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765426 >>2765428

>>2764843
In all fairness I doubt your average person looking to pick up a console for themselves will know how to fix an NES and probably won't be motivated to learn how to do so. Your best bet would be selling to a flipper, but they probably won't pay too much.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 17:07:36 No.2765357 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765369 >>2765449 >>2765652

>>2688308
First up... How much do you already know? There's lots of general info which applies to MOST to ALL arcade controls that can help you here. But if you don't know much, it's still a pretty straightforward fix.

It's likely one of three things... Arcade buttons are comprised of the actual plastic housing you see from the outside (the pushbutton,) the micro switch that gets activated when you push down on the button, and the 2 wires that connect the switch to the main board.
1. The plastic button works may just be sticky or dirty.
2. The microswitch is worn and needs replacement.
3. The wires connecting the button are worn or faulty. (This one's unlikely, but troubleshooting 101 says we shouldn't rule that out yet.)

So again, how much do you know?

Also, again, this is a general arcade button fix. Neo Geo-related forums will likely help, but you needn't over specialize here. You can probably find how-to's on YouTube.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 17:20:34 No.2765369 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2765357
Yeah, if his MVS is something purchased from arcade-use, it might just be time to replace the buttons.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 17:25:27 No.2765380 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765423

>>2765069
Move it closer. Lolololol.

No srsly...
It probably means the TV doesn't support the format. This is the common reaction when the game you're trying to play doesn't support VGA.

That's right. Not ALL DC games support VGA-out. It's a bummer.
Double check. Make sure the game you're playing does. Should say it on the game case. You should also make sure you can at least get the DC menu when you start it up with no game in / the lid open. You wanna rule out the box itself being the issue.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 17:47:02 No.2765412 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2719245
DualShocks typically don't have your run of the mill Printed Circuit Board (PCB.) It's usually this thin celophane-ish affair right below the buttons. Personally, I feel like that's just inviting malfunction into the picture. They're mostly good, tho I'm always quick to blame it when stuff like this goes wrong.

I've had the X button give out on my favorite Dual Shock too. It was the bright semitransparent island blue one, if that gives anyone any insight as to when I got it or when it was manufactured... if thats's even relevant. Didn't even use this one in a PC adapter. It just gave up after a while.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 17:52:08 No.2765423 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765439

>>2765380
The Dreamcast itself doesn't show up, when I use a monitor everything works.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 17:54:57 No.2765426 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2765342
True

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 17:57:02 No.2765428 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2765342
>Your best bet would be selling to a flipper

WTF is a dolphin gonna do with a NES?? smh

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 17:58:31 No.2765429 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765434

I bought one of those alien famicom consoles with the shape of a psx for 10 dollars, it works fine but it just looks horrible. Any ideas for a hardware dummie?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 18:04:33 No.2765434 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765447

>>2765429

I'm gonna guess this is a PolyStation you're talking about... or at least that's what they call them here... The console where you lift up the CD cover to reveal a cartridge slot. lol

What kind of ideas are you looking for other than using that more realistic looking gun for Duck Hunt?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 18:08:34 No.2765439 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2766785

>>2765423
My friend has a Retrobit VGA box. He ran into this problem briefly. Seemed like the box was outputting composite (TV-related) sync data along with the other standard VGA data. His TV didn't like that and wouldn't display it, but the monitor I brought over for troubleshooting WOULD display it. Modern flat panel monitors tend to support a wider range of sync rates, whereas TVs with VGA-in don't always. It's finnicky and depends on the make, model, when it was made, blah blah blah.

Some questions for you:

The monitor it works on, is it a CRT or flat panel? Wide screen?

Is the VGA box official Sega, or aftermarket?

Does it have a switch on it? Are you sure the switch is in the right position?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 18:12:51 No.2765442 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2765329

Does it make sense that the console would power up fine and only have the sound affected by the lack of that power adapter ring? Because it's odd that the video would be so perfectly crisp whereas the audio is just absolute crap.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 18:17:15 No.2765447 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765479

>>2765434
I wanted to put all of the electronics into a famicom or NES case, or even just a box. I was thinking about doing it with a 3D printer or something

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 18:19:30 No.2765449 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765652

>>2765357
>>2691296
OK. Missed this post initially.

Yeah. Switches alone can be cheap depending on the brand and life expectancy. If you just want something functional, you've got lots of options. If you want something quick, snappy, and responsive, check with fighting game entusiasts. Tho you'll probably end up dropping considerably more then, and unless you're a big fight fan, might not even notice or care about the difference.

Consider swapping out the switches from the start buttons, or even the select button if you've got a multi slot MVS.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 18:46:23 No.2765479 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2765447

but the faux-psx casing is too hilarious to get rid of if you ask me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 20:12:00 No.2765617 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2764413
With enough time and money you can fix anything.

Thing is, it's not worth the cost.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 20:38:32 No.2765652 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2765357
>>2765449
Yeah I went ahead and purchased buttons from groovy game gear because they looked reasonable.

This thing has very clearly been through the arcade, its fairly new to me.(september) and I decided to do the buttons since a few were unresponsive and more importantly it was just grimey as fuck all around. The control panel overlay was pretty fucking disgusting and theres some surface rust on the underside of the control panel so I'm gonna strip it and re paint it, but the weathers been shitty and I havent gone out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 21:15:26 No.2765713 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2765979 >>2766397

>>2721374
update: I pulled apart the neo geo CD and found that the flex cable connecting the CD drive to the main board has two lifted pins on the cable itself. Anyone got any ideas on what to do?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 28 Oct 2015 23:39:51 No.2765979 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2766397

>>2765713
Uh.....

pics?
I'm having a hard time following. I'm a dummy.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 06:38:47 No.2766397 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767084 >>2767110

>>2765979
Not him, but you know the contacts on the ends of a flex cable? They came up and are hanging off the cable.

>>2765713
You can try gluing them back down with some sort of heat setting glue and an iron, if the contacts haven't broken off.

If they have broken off, you're stuck with the task of finding a new cable.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO tumblr_n711imLoDe1qj4kb9o1_500.jpg, 92KiB, 444x750

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 12:42:38 No.2766712 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2766845 >>2767029

I recently purchased a bunch of new N64 controllers that all have really tight, good condition sticks, that completely blow my old flaccid analog controllers out of the water

Is there a recommended brand of electronic/plastic safe grease that I can use on these to reduce future wear?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 12:48:43 No.2766717 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2708825
responding to an old ass post might be a waste of time but not many people realize that it's pretty easy to take out screws with pliers one they're sticking out enough to get a grip on them

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO $_57.jpg, 191KiB, 1600x1600

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 13:46:55 No.2766785 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2766861

>>2765439
flat panel, wide screen, I actually have a VGA cable not a box, it doesn't have a switch

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 14:37:04 No.2766845 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767015

>>2766712
Maaaan
The level of teardown necessary to grease up the moving parts in a 64 stick? Screw that, I'd say. If you ask me, it's more worth your while to wait til they need to be replaced and swap out the whole thing. It's quicker and easier.

Is it cheaper though?
Thought I saw N64 replacement sticks going for about $11 USD on the page the Wiki in OP's post points you toward for N64 repair.

For less labor and knowing it will last years, $11 is a fair compromise in my book.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 14:53:23 No.2766861 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767156

>>2766785
Hmm.
Take this with a grain of salt, as I'm not personally there troubleshooting your situation...
I would assume from the sound of things that the sync data being output is composite compliant rather than VGA standard, which your monitor is supporting but your TV isn't.

Few more quick questions...

Does your monitor have an "info" or "status" display that has any hertz (hz or khz) data on it? If yes, what does it say when you're displaying Dreamcast on it?

When you're playing Dreamcast on it, is the picture kind of fuzzy or blurry? I assume the definition of individual pixels is still better than using the the composite red-white-yellow connectors, but if it's NOT pixel perfect crispness (or damn near it) that could certainly help the diagnosis.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 15:04:32 No.2766879 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2759216
PAL isn't inherently worse. It's the games that were developed for NTSC (as in, most of them coming out of Japan) that were later ported to PAL that no one bothered to change or compensate for speed differences, thereby altering gameplay.

Sloppy porting is the problem, and it's common on JP games that get ported to PAL regions. It's not PAL's fault.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 16:19:02 No.2767015 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767030

>>2766845
>The level of teardown necessary to grease up the moving parts in a 64 stick? Screw that, I'd say.

One screw.

One single additional screw.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 16:25:27 No.2767029 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2766712
>Is there a recommended brand of electronic/plastic safe grease that I can use on these to reduce future wear?

No recommended brand, just avoid anything petroleum-based.

White lithium is always a good bet, and you can find it everywhere.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 16:25:46 No.2767030 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767039

>>2767015
You're right. Sorry.
Screws that, I meant. Lolololol.

Nah.
I thought the stick had its own little plastic box inside the controller to pop open. I may be thinking of something else.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 16:29:21 No.2767039 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2767030
>I thought the stick had its own little plastic box inside the controller to pop open. I may be thinking of something else.
It does. It's one screw more effort to open that up than to replace it entirely. Once it's open you can drop some grease in, close it, and wobble the stick around.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 16:49:57 No.2767084 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767808

>>2766397
I tried gluing them back down with super tiny amounts of superglue but it didn't work obviously, since the pins popped back up. I might try that suggestion though, or say screw it and try to find a compatible cable on digikey or something.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 16:58:24 No.2767110 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2766397
>>2766397

Oh. Right right right. Flex cable.
For some reason I was thinking pins and sockets and individually sheilded wires. Fuck me.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 000pt1.png, 21KiB, 256x224

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 17:04:05 No.2767120 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767157

I have this SNES that won't work with composite cables, however RGB and S-Video are working fine. What the hell?

Haven't tried with coaxial because I don't have that cable.

Could it be some blown capacitor?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC_0008.jpg, 530KiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 17:24:29 No.2767156 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767265

>>2766861
This is what I got.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 17:24:32 No.2767157 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2767120
Do you have a NES coax, or N64 coax?

Shit, even a Genesis (original model) coax? Any of those will work.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 18:37:41 No.2767265 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2767156
60 hz. Pretty common for VGA... and NTSC TVs.

You using a PAL-compliant TV? That could be why.

Sorry, I'm still learning all this stuff about signals and sync rates. If you're on the EU side of the pond, incompatibility with PAL may be the issue. Otherwise, it may be a cheap cable, in which case I'd recommend a VGA box instead.

Either way, you may want to check in the CRT thread. This isn't necessarily a CRT problem, but those are the kind of videophiles who could probably help you out way quicker.

Over this way:
>>2758694

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 20:28:36 No.2767449 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767462

Okay, I want to play PS1 imports on my PS2 without installing a modchip or doing a disc swap while the disc is spinning. I thought Free McBoot would let me do that, but it apparently doesn't. I heard that I'd be able to with a PS1 Gameshark...Is this correct? If not, are there any other options?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 20:36:00 No.2767462 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2767465

>>2767449
you still need a swap card. One prog in FMCB will stop the disc for safer swapping.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 20:37:31 No.2767465 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2767462

I need one if I'm using a Gameshark disc?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 29 Oct 2015 20:41:19 No.2767474 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2765069
Probably the usual Dreamcast resolution quirk.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 30 Oct 2015 00:50:26 No.2767808 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2768768

>>2767084
update: after carefully reinserting the flex cable back into both ZIF sockets, and cleaning the laser, I can now report that the Neo Geo CD is alive again, working off a spare external IDE power supply.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 30 Oct 2015 15:30:49 No.2768768 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2768774

>>2767808
>ZIF sockets
>Neo Geo CD
>early 90s

Whoa. Whoa.

Mind blown. My first encounter with ZIF wasn't til around Pentium 4s.

Then again, it wasn't til then that I actually started getting down and dirty with hardware. I may just be oblivious.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO fc1_thumb[1].png, 7KiB, 200x150

Anonymous Fri 30 Oct 2015 15:35:00 No.2768774 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2768780

>>2768768
these have been around forever, the NGCD certainly wasn't the first to use them

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 30 Oct 2015 15:43:43 No.2768780 Report Delete

Quoted By: >>2768802 >>2768889

>>2768774
Is that a true ZIF tho?

ZIF is Zero Insertion Force. Usually you just lay the component effortlessly in its slot and pull a slide/lever to lock it in place.

That looks a lot like any other flex cable slot where you do indeed have to exert a small amount of force to achieve insertion.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 30 Oct 2015 16:06:25 No.2768802 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2768780
>exert a small amount of force to achieve insertion

Lolololololololol.
I laughed because I'm a giant 8 year old.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 30 Oct 2015 17:29:48 No.2768889 Report Delete

Quoted By:

>>2768780
it is true ZIF

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